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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Back Firing No Power

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Roper Bob

09-12-2004 20:11:01




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Still working on my 1944 2-N that we have completely overhauled the engine. Like I posted earlier, the tractor was running GREAT...all of a sudden it just seemed to lose it's power and the engine does not seem to be running properly. We checked and cleaned out all the fuel (gasoline) lines.. there was this screen half way plugged up inside the carberator. Cleaned it out and check the carb out for any other plugged holes. We feel like the fuel line and carb are fine now. The engine is back firing when you give it more gasoline. The tractor just does not have much power. I drove it in all three gears...I especially noticed not much power and no speed in 3rd gear? We did have the distributor off and changed spark plugs. The many archives especially note to make sure the wiring is in the correct firing order. We will especially check the wiring tomorrow. Just seeking some help on this matter. I appreciate all your advise.

Frustrated in Texas,
Susan

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Roper Bob

09-13-2004 19:20:41




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 Re: Back Firing No Power in reply to Roper Bob, 09-12-2004 20:11:01  
Hey Tractor Friends.. After checking the compression on the engine, we found that cylinder #1 had NO pressure. We discovered the intake valve stuck open for cylinder #1. After getting it to release and cranking the engine a couple of times, the valve moved up and down. We sprayed a little 3 in 1 oil on it and it seemed to be free and moving. We put it back together and it seems to be running GREAT! I drove it in all three gears, seems to have my power back, and no backfiring. What caused the valve to stick open? I would like to prevent this from happening again? Just took some time to get to the valves and then putting it back together. If I ever get a divorce, it might be over my 2N... If anyone has any suggestions to help me prevent this from happening, please advise.

Happy in Texas,
Susan

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Dell (WA)

09-13-2004 20:20:46




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 Re: Back Firing No Power in reply to Roper Bob, 09-13-2004 19:20:41  
Susan..... ...valves get sticky 'cuz the oil hazzn't been changed often enuff. I'm glad you got your valve "unstuck" but its gonnna happen again iff'n you don't do something about it.

Me? I'd put a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in with the rest the engine oil and run it for about 1 hour and then drain the engine oil and change the oil filter. MMO is one of very few engine "additives" that actually work. BTW this is the same "Marvel" company that made your 9N's Marvel/Schebler carburator.

I use 20-50wt oil for eazier cold engine starting and hot engine protection ...and... the DETERGENT ablility to suspend the sticky combustion by-products that turn into varnish that caused your intake valve to stick open. Ford recommends changing your engine oil EVERY FALL (or 200 hrs of operation).

Sometimes descriptions of problems get garbled, and ignition is more common problem than stuck valves. I flunked mindreading, just ask my ex-wife of 32 years..... .....FWIW, Dell

HTH...hope this helps BTW...by the way
FWIW...for what its worth
IMHO...in my humble opinion
ROFL...rolling on floor laughing

Theres a whole bunch of BBS shorthand and acronyms and there are actually "official lists" of commonly used ones published in various web pages.

Some people use them to make themselves appear less pompous (ha!) others because it fits the casual conversational mode of bulletin boards; others because they want to appear part of the "in-crowd"..... ...Dell

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Roper Bob

09-13-2004 20:40:19




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 Re: Back Firing No Power in reply to Dell (WA), 09-13-2004 20:20:46  
Hey Dell,
Thanks for your explaination on the acronyms. As for the oil in my tractor, we drained out the old oil and filter. With the new engine overhaul, we put in new oil...probably not the 20-50wt oil and I do not think I have 200 hours on my tractor. So do you want me to put in the MMO in the current oil, run for 1 hour and then drain and change oil & filter to start off with new 20-50 wt oil? What brand oil do you suggest? I do not want another stuck valve!! Please reply.
Not divorced yet...
Susan

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Dell (WA)

09-13-2004 23:55:41




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 Re: Back Firing No Power in reply to Roper Bob, 09-13-2004 20:40:19  
Susan..... ...as a general rule, new rebuilt engines with 200 hours of running time, shouldn't have oil deposit caused sticky valves. But yes, do the MMO oil treatment as a precaution. ($20, cheap) I like Valvoline Oil.

I am concerned about your intake valve sticking, it shouldn't. Right now, I'm thinking the valve keeper didn't get set right or is coming loose for some reason. And NO, it won't damage your engine iff'n it does. Just an irritating annoyance, but at least iff'n it re-occurs, you'll know what going on.

I worked as a BMW mecanic for a while and some of the BMW owners are a little paronoid about special oil, and we'd have to use their supplied oil. And guess what? they were generally the dirtest engines I worked on. Since they never did their own mechanicing, they never saw all the carbon cake gunk deposited under their beautiful cast alumnium overhead camshaft valve cover.

My personal 1969 BMW 2002 with 385K miles, you can almost eat off the valve cover. Thats what good detergent oil changed every 4000 miles will do for you..... ...Dell

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clearfield

09-13-2004 08:11:39




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 Re: Back Firing No Power in reply to Roper Bob, 09-12-2004 20:11:01  
Susan
I had a concern of this type a few years ago and after checking fuel and points and coil I noticed that my plug wires looked like the ones that came from the factory back in 52 so I went to a NH dealer and got the factor wires did not want to have to use the ones you have to put together these ones were already made up put them on and you would not believe how much better the tractor ran it would go up a slight grade in 3rd gear where I would have to gear down in 2nd before.
something to look at the wires may look OK on the outside but may be corroded on the inside.
Bob

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Ken Bohannon

09-13-2004 06:11:46




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 Re: Back Firing No Power in reply to Roper Bob, 09-12-2004 20:11:01  
Did you clean the filter in the tank? Actually in the sediment bowl? Can you see the governor rod actuating when you throttle it up. Also there is a fine tune adjustment on the distributor for different grades of fuel that is kinda of a hit & miss thing. Had to do that to mine. I had kind of the same problem but it wasn't out of fresh overhaul. It had sat for a long time. Popped & backfired no power. I suspected it was just the rings reseating and probably crude under the valve seats. You may just have some gum up in the carb, mine is no powerhouse or speed demon in 3rd but I know it is the governor and carb. So if you have a lot of time to tinker with it, check these things out.

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Dell (WA)

09-12-2004 23:35:36




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 Re: Back Firing No Power in reply to Roper Bob, 09-12-2004 20:11:01  
Susan..... ...my advice tonite is the same as last time you asked. CHECK YOUR IGNITION POINTS. (0.015") The p/n 355047-S7, #8-32x3/16" plated brass screw threads get worn and won't hold the points and they will slip closed and you'll gett WEAK SPARKIES that sound like poor running and no power. Might as well replace your ignition points ($3, cheap) while you have the distributor on your kitchen table.

Oh BTW, that screw is a common Ford automobile screw and not just a tractor only screw..... ...respectfully, Dell

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BillM (OH)

09-12-2004 21:10:35




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 Re: Back Firing No Power in reply to Roper Bob, 09-12-2004 20:11:01  
If fuel flow is OK (runs out carb drain with good flow), suspect points slipped some (hold down screw has habit of not holding down). Should be able to confirm by testing for good blue snapping spark -- if weak yellow, pull distributor and check.



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