9N oil change, leak question

Thank you all again for the information. It's nice to know so many people are interested in 60 year old equipment!

On that pto leak... grab the shaft and see if it has and forward/back motion.. or up down motion.

Often the bearing will start to go out and allow up down motion.. and that will cause the seal to fail. Also.. front to back motion ( also from a bad bearing ) will cause the pto shaft to disengage byitself when under load.

Soundguy

Thanks again.

Draining engine oil should be fairly obvious...big drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan. Also drain the oil filter cannister and replace the cartridge with a Fram C3 or C3P (beleive there's also a Napa 1010 Gold filter equivalent) while you're in there. I would recommend starting with something like straight 30 weight non-detergent oil, but 10W-30 should also work just fine. For more information, please search the archives on oil as this always seems to spark controversy on which oil to use.

Tranny: Go to NAPA and order a 5-gallon pail of 90-wt Mineral Oil, part number 65-205. This is the original stuff that ford spec'd for the tractor and works much better at preventing leakages in the hydraulic system than the optional MC-134D oil that was spec'd later on. Both can successfully be used in the tractor, but the 134-D is thinner and generally used in colder climates.

Don't forget...there's 3 drain plugs under the tractor for the transmission; two large hex-head plugs (one under the tranny, one about mid way back) and a pipe plug under the diffy. Drain all 3 starting with the pipe plug and working your way forward. Yes, the big hex plug by the gear shift lever is the fill-em-up hole (as Dell would say).

Bad news: the only way to stop the leak around the lift pin is to pull the left-hand axle trumpet. There's a castle nut on the INSIDE of the rear end that holds that thing in there and there's no way to tighten it from the outside. PTO leakage is due to a worn out seal. I would suggest you order a new PTO seal, rear axle trumpet gasket, PTO housing gasket, and the gasket for the lift pin plate and tear into it and git-er-done! Only pull the left hand axle trumpet as that is the side that allows the differential to come out so you can access BOTH castle nuts on the lift pin plates.

By all means, keep asking questions and we'll walk you through this stuff step-by-step. That's why we're here. Congrats on your new toy, er, i mean manly utility machine that you NEED to get some heavy work done....yeah, that's it.

Jeb

1947 2N #9N-299417

Most multi-weight oils are detergent oils, meaning that they kinda scrub and clean the engine as they lubricate. They also keep the crud in suspension so that more of it gets trapped in the filter and is removed during oil changes. The problem that some see in using this in an old engine is that it has the potential of breaking up the sludge that has built up over the years in the engine....causing leaks where none used to be and floating sludge around clogging up things that need to be open.

You can also get 30 weight HD oil...for High-Detergent. That's what I use in my newly rebuilt motor to keep it clean.

The missing guage is the oil pressure gauge. It went on the right, ammeter on the left. Also, original was 6V, with the starter button in front of the gear shift unless it's an early type with a push button on the dash somewhere. Regular antifreeze is just fine. It's a brass radiator and you won't damage a thing.

The trumpet isn't really difficult to get off. Just awkward as it is so heavy. Just remove the wheel and center disc. Then remove the 11 or so nuts all around the axle where it bolts to the center housing. Have a friend (or two) help you slide the housing straight out. That's all there is to it. The gasket that goes between the two is very thin so soak it in water to allow it to expand and bend without being so fragile.

Jeb

I just looked at my FO-4 manual diagram for that lift pin and it looks like there may be a lock washer inside under the castle nut.

I have used a pneumatic air wrench to tighten such bolts by spinning them real fast and prying outward on the bolt at the same time with some kind of a flat tool. Do you recon such might work in this case?

Jeb