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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum

cylinder head

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philm

09-23-2004 06:24:15

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i had my 8n cylinder head resurfaced.
to be on the safe side, before torquing it down, i decided to do a dry run to check clearance between head and block. so i placed the head on the block, with a couple of bolts turned in a couple of threads, just to line up the head with the block.
while using the fan blade to rotate the crankshaft, the head is lifted off the block by the pistons.
figuring that the head gasket provides more clearance, i repeated the above procedure using the old head gasket, since it was already compressed and not as thick as the new one.
now there seems to be enough clearance that the pistons no longer contact the head. what i am wondering is, can i use this head or or do i have a gripe with the machine shop for taking too much metal off the head?
i am concerned about installing the head the way it is. since it is so close, if i put it back together, will the pistons bump the head once everything warms up?

thanks

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Hobo, NC

09-23-2004 08:05:30

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Re: cylinder head in reply to philm, 09-23-2004 06:24:15

Spread a light coat of grease on the inside of the head or on top of the piston, lay the head on with out a gasket and rotate the engine. that will show you were ya need to grind releif. If the side of the piston comes out of the bore any thats is were it most likley is hittig the head. When you cut the head you cut out the relief for the out side of the piston. if you had a good head to compair to you would see what I mean. let us know what you find. May help others

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Bob

09-23-2004 07:00:40

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Re: cylinder head in reply to philm, 09-23-2004 06:24:15

Put dab of Play Doh in each area that you're worried about being too close, and set the head on, with the gasket under it, tighten a few head bolts/studs too just beyound finger tight, and turn the engine over slowly by hand.

The thickness of the squashed Play Doh will show what clearance you have at the tight spots. Use a die grinder, and remove some metal in any areas that are too close, and try again.

That is easy to do, and will eliminate and chance of metal-to-metal contact (read KNOCK) in the assembled engine.

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philm

09-26-2004 15:28:49

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Re: cylinder head in reply to Bob, 09-23-2004 07:00:40

have decided to go with 2 gaskets, only because i want to get this thing up and figured this is the quickest way.
if i have occasion to pull the head again, i will try grinding where the pistons are hittig.
it will give me an excuse to get a grinder.
thanks to all.

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souNdguy

09-23-2004 06:48:40

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Re: cylinder head in reply to philm, 09-23-2004 06:24:15

You can always use a stack of two head gaskets.. but that isn't the preferential way.. only a last ditch effort to save a head.

Those heads only have about .010 material that can be shaved off.. and no telling how much has been done previously.

You may find others that have used a grinder to relieve areas that are potential contact points.. perhaps using some of that neat automotive blue contact die to help figure out what areas are contacting between the valves, and or piston.

vs a new head at about 150$

Soundguy

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ZANE

09-23-2004 06:35:05

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Re: cylinder head in reply to philm, 09-23-2004 06:24:15

I have been fixing Ns for over 50 years and have yet to mill a head on one.

That thing of laying a straight edge on the head and measureing the gap in the middle of the head is just a con game the machine shop uses to do the head. That little warp is easily pulled down straight when it is bolted down. I just never have been able to understand why most people fall for that trick?????

I would go on and torque the head down with a new gasket and see what happens. If it hits the head I have read of putting on two head gaskets with sucess. Might just go on and install two to begine with. The amount of compression difference will not be evident in the operation of the engine.

Zane

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