Ford 2N

NO the #2 sleeve should NOT MOVE up and down. The N-Sleeve should be an "interferrence fit" meaning the OD of the sleeve should be slightly larger then the ID of the dry cylinderblock hole. And you install with eather allotta force or dryice inside the sleeve to shrinkfit the sleeve into the block. Normally, your headgasket clamped over the sleeve lip prevents the sleeve from moving. I don't think the missing sleeve lip is of great concern as long as it is NOT symtomatic of a crack extending down into the sleeve wall.

Me? I'd go to a real automotive parts store and gitt some "sleeve puckey" and puckey the underlip of the sleeve about 1/4". (you already know how to raise it, grin) Yes, they do make a sleeve/stud glue, follow instructions.

As for the #4 sparkie, hard telling, the sparkplug hole is over the BLOCK not the valve or pistontop. Iff'n the head was "milled" to flatten a warp by a previous re-builder, CAUTION #1: N-Head is only capable of only 1-pass of the headmill cutter with less than 0.010" removal. CAUTION #2: N-Head is designed for 0.4325" (7/16") reach sparkplugs. There are also 1/2 reach sparkplugs that also fit but will cause the grounding electrode to bendover. CAUTION #3: there are some "extended nose" sparkies that are 7/16" shell and just too long to fit without bending the side electrode.

Me? I'd install a NEW SET of AutoLite AL-437 (check gap 0.025 outta the box) torque to 25 ft/lbs and hand rotate the engine again and inspect the sparkplugs for interferrence. Iff'n electrode is bent, I'd put 2-sparkie washers under the sparkplug. CAUTION: the headthread can become contaminated and may cause running on at shut-off time and make it difficult (impossible) to install a sparkie with only 1-sparkie gaskett. (use a sparkplug thread chaser tap to clean headthread)

Iff'n still bending electrodes, I'd gittsome "sparkplug extender shells" (usually used for oilfouling problems, look in the "help" section of the store with all those weird parts like springs and window cranks) and assuming nothing else is bouncing against the clylinder head (like valves and piston-tops), yer probably good to go. I'd check that the extended sparkie has enuff heat to burn off any contaminates..... ....Dell

Thorougly clean the parent bore, and use Loctite on the new sleeve.

If you do not do this now, almost certainly you will be doing it SOON, after the sleeve breaks and makes it's way to the bottom of the oil pan in pieces.

Sleeve, piston, and ring assemblies typically sell for about $75.00 per hole, individually. I just checked ebay, and a reliable parts supplier has several on there for $20.00 to $30.00, depending on type (.040" or .090" wall). That would be a cheap fix!