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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Electrical update

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Pete in Michiga

09-25-2004 09:24:07




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SouNdguy, Jeb, Larry, and the like, thanks yet again for your replies about my electrical problems. Sorry for not posting a follow-up sooner, but being a nursing student I'm ALWAYS on the go. That being said, the 9N started fine this moring. I am really starting to like that little tractor. I'm glad it's sitting in a cozy garage now. It sounds like the popular concensus is for me to return to a 6-volt system. Well, where would I start? The wiring is certainly in dire shape. After trying to start it for a short time the other day, it DID burn the heck outta my hand when checking to see if any wires were loose. With you all(most all) being in favor of the 6-V system, why would someone have gone to the trouble of cobbling up the wiring to convert in the first place? Anyway, here's what I have to try to sort out: no ammeter at all (open hole instead), toggle switch which controls the current to the coil, I'm assuming. When it's turned, it will crank but not start. Also, the key, cylinder, and two wires from it are there, but they are not connected to anything. There aren't any lights at all. The alternator/generator looks just like the others online that have been restored, but it must put out 12 volts, I suppose. I don't know what was done to the ignition, such as an electronic ingnition or not. Hope this helps you formulate some starting point for me. Either way, thank you all again for the ideas to get this started again.

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Bob

09-25-2004 10:16:16




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 Re: Electrical update in reply to Pete in Michigan, 09-25-2004 09:24:07  
If your tractor actually has "stealth" 12 Volt generator, a repro of the original wiring harness will work, with the simple addition of a current limiting resistor (and possibly a different ballast resistor) in the coil circuit. Or, if it has a 12 Volt alternator, simple and GOOD wiring diagrams for that system are readily available on the 'net, too. Keeping an "'N" with either electrical system in tip-top running condition is certainly not rocket science!

The same key switch and light switch will work for either voltage, and, of course, you'll need light bulbs to match your choice of voltage.

I can understand people staying with 6 Volt if absolute originality is important to them, but on the other hand, a properly done 12 Volt negative ground system that matches the electrical systems likely to be found in vehicles, etc. around the place has it's advantages, too.

For every one that posts on here bragging about how well their original 6 Volt system works, someone else posts asking about how to jump-start a 6 Volt positive ground system with a 12 Volt negative ground system, or how to fix the damage they've done with an incorrectly connected jump start. The importance of commonality of electrical systems probably doesn't seem important until some evening at near-dark, when you're got the "'N" at the far end of your backlot with a dead battery, and it's starting to rain!

So, the choice is yours, but personally I appreciate the 12 Volt conversions on several of my old tractors, and can tell you there's nothing to fear, and many benefits to a neatly and properly done 12 Volt conversion.

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Dell (WA)

09-25-2004 10:08:17




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 Re: Electrical update in reply to Pete in Michigan, 09-25-2004 09:24:07  
Pete..... ...cheap-a$$ 12 volt shadetree converter (mumble...mumble...grumble). Properly done it looks professional and factory. And while you might have had a loose connection, the "hot-spott" was probably the 12 to 6 volt converting resistor. (burnie-burnie) The toggle switch is acting the same as your un-wired keyed ignition switch. The ammeter was probably bad and is really NOT NEED with a properly converted 12 volt system. Most 12 volt cars just use an "idiot light" ennyways.

I am 100% certain yer cheap-a$$ converter didn't install a $200 electronic ignition conversion for your frontmount ignition system. So you don't haffta worry about that.

And the reason why most people convert to 12 volts is to "band-aid" a tired engine with a faster spinning starter motor that'll spin the engine fast enuff to gitter running.

The other most common reason to convert to 12 volts is 'cuz ol'Bubba down at the local spittin' and whittl'n club after a pull on the barley-pop sagely advizes the newbie "thats the thang to do, yep converter to 12 volts". And the neubie with ears used to the whirr of a modern 12 volt sewing machine starter motor and frightened by the sloooww turning ruummp-rump of the 6 volt starter on 6 volts, succumbs to the evil seductive lure of 12 volts.

And NO, I would NOT ADVISE returning to 6 volts, but I'd advise carefully studying the entire N-Wiring scheme from a manual so you become conversant with your tractor electrical scheme. Its really a quite simple system and iff'n you can learn to do a cath or IV or EKG, you can learn simple electrical stuff..... ....Dell, a 12 volt advocate for the right reasons

That said, I haven't found the right reason for my eazy starting 6 volt 52 8N, and I know how to do it right the 1st time. Infact I know 8-ways to do it.

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Pete

09-25-2004 16:03:38




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 Re: Electrical update in reply to Dell (WA), 09-25-2004 10:08:17  
Well Bob and Dell, it sounds like I'm going to stick with 12 volts. That resistor is what is REALLY hot...burn my fingerprints off hot. I will have to do some serious reading to try to figure the proper way the wiring should be run, then figure out why they didn't do it that way when they converted it. What manuals/diagrams would you suggest?



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Larry 8N75381

09-25-2004 19:04:36




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 Re: Electrical update in reply to Pete, 09-25-2004 16:03:38  
Pete,

A guy named Niel Reitmeyer used to post here a long time ago. Then he put up his own site and stopped posting here. He has a lot of information on his site about N"s. Here is his wiring diagram page ->Link
Remember>Link this is just one way to do the 12v conversion, but mainly the variables are the alternator and what it needs to produce current. The diagrams on this page are good in that they show the COMMON wiring that ALL N"s have to run, i.e. plug wires, starter to battery wire, etc. Get these in right then you will have less to worry about when you start to wire up the alternator and coil.

HTH,
Larry

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