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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Making diamonds with my N

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TIMW(PA)

10-06-2004 10:07:53




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Well...Not quite but before I worry about paint (see post below), I took the oil pan off and was suprised how much carbon build-up there was. Too bad my compression wasn't up to snuff that would have been the finally ingredient right? carbon, heat and pressure.. :0)Grin. Seriously though How in the world do I clean this stuff off? I've heard of acid dipping it, but won't that damage bearing journals, valve seats and stuff? Thanks...Tim

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Rob

10-06-2004 14:19:49




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 Re: Making diamonds with my N in reply to TIMW(PA), 10-06-2004 10:07:53  
Like Hobo says, looks pretty normal for a high-mileage engine.
If you're going to rebuild the engine the machine shop will clean it for, no problem.
You might be surprised what a rag wet with Stoddard solvent = mineral spirits = paint thinner will do.



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Dell (WA)

10-06-2004 11:25:47




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 Re: Making diamonds with my N in reply to TIMW(PA), 10-06-2004 10:07:53  
Tim..... ....lever-bee....It ain't gonna hurt nuttin.

Whatcha see is the result of longtime engine operation with NON-detergent oil and NO thermost. Modern detergent oil suspends naturally occouring black stuff in the oil so the filter can do its job. The engine needs to opperate at a high-enuff thermostatically controled temperature to make certain that the combustion by-products are kept in suppension so the oilfilter can do its job. Otherwize the by-products settle out against cold surfaces.

Ya start scrapin' and the big chunks will fall-off later and clog yer oilpump. Iff'n ya wants the block cleaned (and you will) for yer engine rebuild job, engine machine shops have a chemical vat that they use to desolve and float away all the crud. It's NOT ACID, its alkaline. You doubt? Go visit an engine rebuild shop and ask for a tour, lettem know you're interested in their services.

And NO, it doesn't harm enny of your bearings 'cuz you've removed them to gitt the crank out and are going to replace them ennyways after you have your crankshaft cleaned and miked to determine condition and size of both the main bearing and rod bearing journals. And NO, there are NO camshaft bearings in the N-Block to worry about. And yes, dip yer bare crankshaft too. Your machine shop should charge about $25 for all this service..... ..respectfully, Dell

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Bob

10-06-2004 21:21:28




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 Re: Making diamonds with my N in reply to Dell (WA), 10-06-2004 11:25:47  
Here's some hot tank solution info:

Link

To eliminate chemical disposal problems, some engine rebuilders have a specially-designed oven, that heats the engine parts up until the crud is burned off of them, sorta like SWMBO's self-cleaning oven.

http://www.pyradia.com/heat.html



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TIMW(PA)

10-06-2004 12:49:06




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 Re: Making diamonds with my N in reply to Dell (WA), 10-06-2004 11:25:47  
Iffn they use alkaline wouldn't a dip in my hydrolysis tank with lye take care of it?



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Hobo,NC

10-06-2004 10:31:34




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 Re: Making diamonds with my N in reply to TIMW(PA), 10-06-2004 10:07:53  
If ya took the pan off just to have a look see clean out the pan and put it back on. If you start scraping off the junk on the crank and block you will never get it clean and will break enough of it off to cause a problem down the road. Engine will have to be disasembled and vatted or baked in a oven to get it clean. BTW it looks normal to me for a high milage motor that may have missed a few oil changes, run it

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TIMW(PA)

10-06-2004 10:36:56




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 Re: Making diamonds with my N in reply to Hobo,NC, 10-06-2004 10:31:34  
Rebuilding is my plan. I want it to be just like new. What does the vatting process entail? I was just worried that it'll take a layer of metal off of everything including places I dont want like the bearing journals and such. Or do they protect those somehow?



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Troy(IL)

10-07-2004 07:40:15




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 Re: Making diamonds with my N in reply to TIMW(PA), 10-06-2004 10:36:56  
I have my 53 Jubilee's engine block at the shop right now getting cleaned in their vat, or oven, not even sure which process they use, but if you'd like, i could e-mail you a picture of it when i get it back, to show you what one looks like after a good cleaning.



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Hobo,NC

10-06-2004 18:17:07




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 Re: Making diamonds with my N in reply to TIMW(PA), 10-06-2004 10:36:56  
See Dells reply. around here it will run ya $60.00 to have a motor cleaned. I pay this cuzz I do not want to deal with the problem of getting rid of the waste. Do reclean your parts after ya get them back with soap and water. flush the water jackets out good. Remove the freeze plugs befor you send it out. Tip! to remove the freeze plugs hit them in the center with the ball end of a hammer. this will srink the plug, keep hitting it and it will fall out.

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Steve (Magnolia, TX)

10-06-2004 10:11:03




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 Re: Making diamonds with my N in reply to TIMW(PA), 10-06-2004 10:07:53  
Back when I made rifle cleaning a daily project, we liked carburetor cleaner, for removing carbon.

Of course, the armorers didn't like that, but, sometimes we could get by with it...

HTH
Steve



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Peanut

10-06-2004 10:56:55




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 Seriously This Stuff Really Works in reply to Steve (Magnolia, TX), 10-06-2004 10:11:03  
Back in my own daily rifle cleaning days (USMC), we used CLP to keep our M-16s sparkling. It works wonders on carbon deposits. Link is down below although you can buy it lots of places.

If you don't want to buy it, try soaking a heavy rag with a Coca Cola. Then lay the rag over the area you want to clean. Coke works very well as a mild acid bath. Yes it will draw ants but it does break down other substances quite well. You may have to leave the rag on overnight for the thick stuff.

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Hobo,NC

10-06-2004 18:38:06




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 Re: Seriously This Stuff Really Works in reply to Peanut, 10-06-2004 10:56:55  
Hey Peanut, How much of that stuff will I need to fill a 55 gal bucket so I can drop the hole engine into it. Ya know I have used it on guns and come to think about it, it does smell like GM top engine cleaner witch runs 4 to 5 bucks fer 12 oz. I have found if ya want to do this yer self purple stuff (90.00) for 55 gal. Will break down carbon bout as good as anything I have found.
I have a cleaning station out side the shop. It looks like a pig cooker and it was, just don't cook pigs on it enny more. Ya can scrap, grind wash and clean yer parts on it and all the gunk goes to the bottom of the cooker and the clean water passes out the side near the top. Mess stays out side. When ya get lots of gunk in the bottom i take a dust pan and scoop it out. Let it dry and haul it off. Sure helps keep the mess out of the shop

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Oh Hobo ...

10-06-2004 20:25:12




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 Re: Seriously This Stuff Really Works in reply to Hobo,NC, 10-06-2004 18:38:06  
I wuz just trying to help someone with a build-up problem. I would never suggest a 55 Gal container of CLP. It is a great product for spot build-up ... yes, even exhuast manifolds. I used it and wa very impressed with its ability to remove carbon on rifles.

Don't want to try it. Use an old chisel. I'm fine with that iffn you got the time & patience. :^)

- Happy scrapen.



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TIMW(PA)

10-07-2004 05:24:18




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 Re: Seriously This Stuff Really Works in reply to Oh Hobo ..., 10-06-2004 20:25:12  
what does clp stand for...maybe I'll give it a try



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Peanut

10-07-2004 07:45:04




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 Re: Seriously This Stuff Really Works in reply to TIMW(PA), 10-07-2004 05:24:18  
I always thought it stood for Cleaner Lubricant Protectant. That may be true or not.



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Steve (Magnolia, TX)

10-07-2004 13:25:42




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 Re: Seriously This Stuff Really Works in reply to Peanut, 10-07-2004 07:45:04  
Yes, Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant is the military version of it.
The 'civilian' brand name is Break-Free...

HTH
Steve
(SGT USMC '86-'96)



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TimW(PA)

10-06-2004 10:16:48




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 Re: Making diamonds with my N in reply to Steve (Magnolia, TX), 10-06-2004 10:11:03  
This stuff is hard I dont think any of the wimped out EPA approved junk carborator cleaner I can get will touch this stuff...cant hardly scrape it off. It does scrape off but boy is it tedious...Tim



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