Outlaw..... ...gack.... young mechanics that NEVER heard of POSITIVE GROUND electrical system. Oughtter whang'em along side the head and gitter'tennsion. While yer starter don't care positive or negative ground, yer generator and voltage regulator shure as shute care. And your frontmount squarecan ignition coil can loose upto -40% of its sparkies with incorrect battery polarity. MAKER-RITE, positive ground like God and Henry intended. Then re-polarize your generator/voltage regulator by "arc-sparking" your squarecan voltage regulator's BATT & ARM terminals underneath yer oilpressure gauge. I use a screwdriver blade 'cuz its eazy. The BATT & ARM terminals have THICK yellow wires attached. The other 2-wires are skinny black wires and you leav'em alone. Simple, eh? You can "re-polarize" anytime you think you have electrical charge issues. Just doo-itt ENGINE-OFF. You write..... .."What I have done is i have turned both set screws on the front of the carb all the way down until they were tight. My question....what is the proper carb adjustment with the set screws tightened???"..... ..gack!!! Much to the dismay of the govermental environmentalist doo-gooders, ALL carburators need adjustment. And you just DIDITT WRONG, proving the doo-gooders rite. Ford sez: adjust BOTH the downpointing mainjet and the sidepointing idlemixture to 1-turn, as a STARTING POINT. I adjust the downpointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns and LEAVEITT!!! I then adjust the sidepointing idle mixture for maximum rpms, NOT smoothest, MAXIMUM idle rpms. The N-Idle specifcation is a SLOOOooow 400 rpms and is set by the behind the carb throttle setscrew. Iff'n it sounds too slow your probably close. You may haffta adjust the idlemixture several times to gitt the highest idle speed. My idlemixture is usually about 3/8 turn. Remember: the idlemixture adjust is BASSAKWARDS, out for lean IN for ENRICH. ..... ...Dell
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