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This is the method I used... Open the drains one at a time to handle the gush of fluid. Once you have gone through all the drains then open them all up again with a pan under each and let it drip at least over night. and make sure your lift control is in the down position to drain the piston. You should plan on "washing/Flushing" out the inside. Particularly if you have water in the oil... i.e. if brown/milky. To wash the inside use either kerosene or diesel. I put mine in a garden sprayer and spray it down. I put the nozzle everywhere I can, up the PTO shaft opening if pulled. Through the Filler hole, through the inspection ports, through each drain plug. I catch the diesel in clean oil pans let it settle then decant the "clean" fluid off the sludge and spray again, and again. Go have a beer and let it drain. I then wipe out the bottom with clean paper towels to get the crud out. (do not use cheap towels here). If your fluid had water in it, the "Milky" oil will continue to appear for a while, I just came back and wiped it out. If you do not have water in the trans-hydro oil then you do not have to be so anal in cleaning out all the oil in the cavity. Be sure to do this with good ventilation. The fumes are powerful. Button her back up and fill. Toward the end, fill slowly... i.e. 1 quart per 5 to 10 minutes. To let it all even out in the three sumps. The first time I changed the oil I did not do this and I over filled by a gallon and a half. And because I did not wash out the back that gallon and a half was now contaminated and useless. The garden pump sprayer and brass nozzle wand will be much easier on your fingers than a spray bottle. Hope this helps.
Jeff
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