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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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New to me 8N

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Gary PA

11-25-2004 15:03:00




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Just got my 8N home, won"t start after I got it off the trailer. It was running for just a few minutes when I loaded it, so I already know it will run good. Fuel flow is fine, but no spark when I removed a plug and held it against the manifold. I tried to start it by "pop starting" it, but no go. How do I determine if the condensor is okay or not? And do I have to remove the radiator to work at the distributor? (The tractor has been converted to a 12 volt system). The tractor had been sitting for a while before I got ahold of it, and new plugs and wires are on it. Anyone got any idea"s?

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Dan

11-25-2004 19:30:56




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to Gary PA, 11-25-2004 15:03:00  
Gary - I hope I am not insulting you, but have you checked to make sure the ignition switch is turned on? Since you said it was new to you, I thought maybe you made a newbie mistake and forgot to turn it on - the starter will still spin even with the key off. I'll admit, I have done that as well when I first got my 8N...

Good luck,
Dan



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CATFIXER

11-25-2004 16:09:05




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to Gary PA, 11-25-2004 15:03:00  
I dont know of any way to check a condensor just replace it sounds like you have a front mount distribitor remove the cap and coil remove the two bolts holding the dist to the block check the point gap and check for corrosion you might even clean them with some brake cleaner and grease the cam block on the distr when you are done I have had to do this on my frontmount during high humidity or after a wash jump your ignition switch to see if its failing after it heats up it could also be a bad coil but check the other stuff before you go buy anything if it is the coil you may want to convert it to a auto can type and just use your coil as a dummy connection for your dist cap it works for me dont force the dist when you put it back on line it up and start the bolts hand tight HTH

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Gary PA

11-26-2004 13:32:00




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to CATFIXER, 11-25-2004 16:09:05  
Today I rebuilt the front mounted distributor with a 25 dollar overhaul kit from the Ford dealer. New points and condensor are in it and back together, it was a pretty simple job in the end. The tractor started right up on the first try, so apparently I did something right. I"m not totally sure what part was causing the issue, but if I were to guess I"d say it was the points, they were a little worn and I suspect it wouldn"t take much to have those throwing the whole system off. I cleaned up the dist cap when I re-assembled, got rid of a little corrosion on some pieces in there also, someday I"ll just replace that cap.

It was worth the 25 bucks, now I know everything is in working order and can go on to tackle some other problems. Anyone getting a tractor, the best advice I can give is to plan on replacing all this stuff right away.

Thanks for the advice about getting the dist off, it was appreciated.

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Russ in SoCal

11-25-2004 17:12:09




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to CATFIXER, 11-25-2004 16:09:05  
Gary,
What Catfixer (is he a vet?) said, and . . . you don"t have to remove the radiator. Distributor is held on by two bolts. Disconnect the little wire on top of coil, flip the wire bail forward and lift the distributor off. Catch the cork gasket under it. Open the two metal clips holding the distributor cap and pull it forward and let it dangle. Should be a gasket and dust cover in there. Remove the two bolts and the distributor falls into your hand, hopefully. Look at how its driven from the slot on the front of the cam and the tangs on the distributor. Tangs are offset which you have to note when setting timing. Our best electrical advice giver says the timing HAS to be done at a kitchen table (grin). When you reinstall the distributor, make sure the tangs are not 180 degrees out. I hear that small gorillas CAN install it wrong. When it sits flush, put your bolts in as Catfixer said. If the bolts don"t align, something is amiss.
Russ

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CATFIXER

11-25-2004 17:26:16




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to Russ in SoCal, 11-25-2004 17:12:09  
No not a veterinarian I am a Persian Gulf War Veteran Catfixer is a cool name for someone who works at a Caterpillar dealership and enjoys working on his N tractors and looking at this great and informative board



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Russ in SoCal

11-25-2004 19:55:21




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to CATFIXER, 11-25-2004 17:26:16  
Catfixer,
Hope you didn"t take TOO much offense. None was intended.
Russ
Tuy Hoa, RVN
1969-1970



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CATFIXER

11-25-2004 20:30:01




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to Russ in SoCal, 11-25-2004 19:55:21  
No Sir none taken I salute you!!



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old

11-25-2004 19:39:49




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to CATFIXER, 11-25-2004 17:26:16  
Hey Cat fixer, can you give me some ideas on a 950 cat loader I have on the farm and why it doesn't always pull as it should and other times it does. Thanks



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CATFIXER

11-25-2004 19:43:07




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to old, 11-25-2004 19:39:49  
I need more info does it seem like the transmission isnt pulling or is the engine lugging down?



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old

11-25-2004 19:50:10




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to CATFIXER, 11-25-2004 19:43:07  
Its something to do with the tranny, engine revs up well but at times little or no pull till it warms up. Only time it will spin tires is when its slick also, as in mud etc



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CATFIXER

11-25-2004 21:08:50




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to old, 11-25-2004 19:50:10  
Well OLD I waited awhile and you did not repost I dont want to keep going on with this because I dont want to get in trouble for posting about your loader when this is supposed to be about n tractors I dont mind helping you though
I know you said it pulls after it warms up so that should rule out electrical problems if yours is the more modern version with the trans controller
BUT if its intermittent I would check my connections pull the big one off at the controller and clean it with some component cleaner if you have some trichloroflouroethane stuff like that you could even use brake cleaner I would If you know anyone at your local CAT dealer see if they have and will let you use their transmission analyizer get the book for it too
I have personally seen electrical problems with the modern machines cause shift problems
Check what I mentioned on the other post and dont overlook the obvious
If I had to guess which I dont like to I would say you have a pump problem and or worn internal seals and possibly contigent damage with worn clutch plates (discs) HTH

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old

11-25-2004 21:33:29




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to CATFIXER, 11-25-2004 21:08:50  
Its an old one 1967 so no elec.



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Russ in SoCal

11-25-2004 22:43:36




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 old and CATFIXER in reply to old, 11-25-2004 21:33:29  
If it doesn"t get fixed on the N board, y"all could drive it over to YT"s "Crawlers, Loaders, Dozers and Backhoes" board. Don"t want to have good equipment slackin" off on the job when all it wants is a little TLC.
Russ



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CATFIXER

11-25-2004 19:58:16




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 Re: New to me 8N in reply to old, 11-25-2004 19:50:10  
OK Im sure you are keeping the oil level full and your filter changed Have you tried checking your trans pump pressure? How about P1 or P2?What oil are you using?In the warm south here we use 30w.Have you tried cutting a used filter open to see if you can see any clutch material or metal particles?



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