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8N OIL PICKUP TUBE ASSEMBLY

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Rich

12-09-2004 05:50:43




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Many thanks for all the previous help to my questions. My new question!! - After a complete rebuild we started her up and had a knock. Disaster!!! Took off the pan and the bolt on the #2 connecting rod was hitting the tube on the oil pickup. It had been brazed before and we had tried to bend it to make it line up with the oil drain plug but quit when it became obvious we would break it. We must have distorted it enough that the bolt was hitting the tube and cut a groove in the tube (but not all the way through).Was told these are somewhat hard to get so ordered one from Ford/NH ($137). Decided to plastiguage all bearings since we were in there.Installed the new oil tube (again $137) from Ford/NH. Turned over by hand and guess what ? The #2 rod bolt is hitting the new one. What can I do about this? What a poor design!!! Are the new tubes just heat fitted to the oil pump casting which bolts on? or is there solder in the connection or what? Can we heat it up on the tractor and try to turn it in the casting?Do you suppose the Engineer that designed this is still living so I could track him down and ----- well, never mind. Whats up with Ford? Is there no quality control anymore? I"m anxious to hear this thing run witout a knock (and maybe I can trade it in on a John Deere).

Rich

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Scott PA

12-09-2004 18:02:39




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 Re: 8N OIL PICKUP TUBE ASSEMBLY in reply to Rich, 12-09-2004 05:50:43  
Do you have the wide oil pump? Ford used a narrow oil pump housing part# 9N6603 from 1939-1950 unless updated at some point in it's life with a wide housing, wide gear kit and shorter tube, at serial# 8N247571 they went to a wider oil pump housing part#8N6603 used 1950-1952 and the 8N6615 tube that NH sells today is for this wide pump only, check the numbers on your housing.



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ZANE

12-09-2004 06:57:00




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 Re: 8N OIL PICKUP TUBE ASSEMBLY in reply to Rich, 12-09-2004 05:50:43  
I suspect that the problem is not with the oil pump pickup tube but rather with the connecting rod itself. It may be that the rod has been resized/rebuilt and was cut too much off one side causing the rod to be lower in the bore than is standard. I think I would try another rod in the front cylinder to see if that fixed it.

Don't get hung up on the numbers on the rods meaning that you can't use it in a different cylinder. The numbers are primarily there to prevent mixing the rod caps with the wrong rods. You can put it in any cylinder you choose. There should be no difference in the rods except the numbers.

Zane

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Rich

12-09-2004 10:43:33




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 Re: 8N OIL PICKUP TUBE ASSEMBLY in reply to ZANE, 12-09-2004 06:57:00  
Zane:

Many thanks for your different take on this problem. All four rods have about 1/2" of threads showing past the cap bolt nuts. Is this a typical situation? I really don"t see why there would be so many excess threads but all 4 rods are all alike.It"s the # 2 rod bolt hitting but the #1 is just missing by the smallest of hairs. The new pickup tube appears to be cocked a little sideways when you get back and look at it mounted (in other words the bottom of the pickup sump? is not parallel with horizontal. Do you think this is an assembly problem or would all new pickup assemblys have the same problem?A small error in loction where the tubes goes into the oil pump casting would be greatly exagerrated 8 or 10 inches out along the tube.In other words a small angle error on a line 2 feet from you really becomes large if extended out 200 feet. If I can rule out connecting rod problems how else would you attack this? These are my current thoughts:

1. Grind off the excess threads on the connecting rod. Would this cause any odd problems? How about balance? Would this upset it?

2. Cut a slot in the tube which would allow me to bend the tube away from the rod bolts; take the tube off and repair my cut in that position and then remount it? I"m sure it won"t line up with the drain plug but I don"t think that is necessary. I"ve read posts that say it is but if the location of that tube is dependent on that flimsy screen on the drain plug something stinks at FOMOCO.

3. Return the new inlet tube to the Ford dealer? Or would all new ones be the same.

4. Do you think the tube where it is attached to the oil pump casting was just heat fitted or is there solder in there someplace? Could I just heat the casting and twist the tube a little until it works and then let it cool down?And then the question of solder. Any old solder? silver solder? Brazing? No solder (heat shrink)?

5. A combination of 1 - 4.

I would be glad to send photos if it would help.

Thanks.

Rich

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souNdguy

12-09-2004 12:20:57




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 Re: 8N OIL PICKUP TUBE ASSEMBLY in reply to Rich, 12-09-2004 10:43:33  
You'll need/want the oil pickup tube to hang in the right spot over the drain plug. There is a wire basket that the tube sets in.. it keeps the big chunks from going up in the pump. If you were a tad off.. you'd then have interference with the wire bail, and if off alot.. you would loose the 'benefit' of the screen.. whatever little it does offer.

Soundguy



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Dell (WA)

12-09-2004 11:17:40




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 Re: 8N OIL PICKUP TUBE ASSEMBLY in reply to Rich, 12-09-2004 10:43:33  
Rich..... .....NO WONDER yer KNOCKIN'. You AIN'T GOTTZ the correct 8N piston rods. Probably from a V-8. 8N piston rods have NON-RENEWABLE rod-studs and they should only stick-out about 1/16 past the rod-nuts..... ...Dell



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Rich

12-10-2004 08:01:05




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 Re: 8N OIL PICKUP TUBE ASSEMBLY in reply to Dell (WA), 12-09-2004 11:17:40  
Dell:

Thanks for the input!

What would you think about cutting the threads off of the #1 & #2 connecting rod bolts? Also,
how important do you feel the screen on the drain plug is? The old one didn"t have it because of the location they brazed the oil tube in and I would guess it"s been running 25 - 30 years that way? Also what do you mean by "NON RENEWABBLE" rod studs? And a side note. What"s your opinion of lok-tite on the rod bolts to replace the PAL nuts I took off. So many questions! Thanks.

Rich

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jiminoystercreek

12-09-2004 15:35:28




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 Re: 8N OIL PICKUP TUBE ASSEMBLY in reply to Dell (WA), 12-09-2004 11:17:40  
I agree with Dell (again) here. The rod bolts are not the correct ones. They may well have come out of the engine from some previous installation, but they ain't right. There is no reason a fastener thread should protrude more than a full thread past the nut. Most that do are just a consequence of the manufacturer using an standard length (1.25 inches, say) to cut costs. The excess thread does nothing for the fastener holding ability.

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