Trouble in Paradise Part 2

Ok, I replaced the plug wires since #2 was not even making contact with the plug and I know it was not working. I replaced them with Napa Premium Offroad custom cables - no spark at plugs - tested with screwdriver to block - nothing. I checked the fuel flow - perfect - carb drain valve and input fuel line are clear and flowing nicely. This goes back to an electrical problem. I checked the little wire going to the top of my front mount distributor - 12V converted system when I bought this 1949-1950 8N 2 days ago
The system used to start up IMMEDIATELY via the starter button and ran good. The starter is working - the battery is good - the fan belt has been replaced brand new. The distributor, cap, everything was overhauled and is brand new. But no resistor?

It stalled last night after some surging and now it won't restart. Funny thing is that I traced the resistor wire from behind the dash to the top of distributor - I dont see any resistor anywhere
I took a pic here --- my finger is on the wire going to the distributor. It is just wired onto the wiring block with the other wires. Could I have blown a coil in the distributor or something?
Any ideas?

How do I get to the front mount distributor? Do I have to remove the hood and grill? Explain.

Thanks!!!!! ! Hurry - I need to get it out of the rain! (grin)
Andy

You have to stop and read the posts. Dell told ya what we need to know to aim you in the right direction.

WHAT IS THE VOLTAGE AT THE COIL WITH THE POINTS OPEN AND CLOSED?

By the way, these coils do need a balast resistor to not burnup.

I know it won't help in the long run since the battery is not charging but it may get it out of the rain. Hmmm.

Andy

After you fix the spark problem, get back to the board for help with the charging circuit. The tractor will run without the charging circuit working so it should be your first priority. The link has info on a proper 12v convertion. Compair it to yours and you may find your problem.

• Link

Since you are a young 'un, as one of the OLD f'ts on the board I should give you one other bit of advice, learned in the school of hard knocks.

OLD tractors are a lot like wimmen. You don't have one, you see one that looks GOOD, you marry/buy her/it and think you are in paradise!! THEN they show you who is BOSS!!! :-)

NOW, when you learn ALL their little idiosyncrasies so you STOP doing the wrong things they start right up and purr like you thought they shoud at the begining. The crutial thing is NOT to loose it and do something very stupid as you are in this learning phase. That could lead to very BAD things like divorce/buying a K'buta!!!

So look on your current trials as the 8N's way of being sure you know how to treat/fix/start/and other wise take GOOD care of it. :-)

WE're "here for 'ya" so hang in there. [BIG GRIN]

Ok, so what now? Check the pics and let me know why it still won't start - thanks!

Thanks!
Andy

I see your problem! The sparkplug wires are not connected to the distributor!

Just kidding!

I'll cover the basics and let the experts cover the hard parts.

The coil is the black thing in your picture above. To remove the coil, flip the bail out of the way and disconnect the wire on top. Coil will now come out. There should be a cork gasket between the coil and the distributor/cap.

The tan colored thing in your picture is your distributor cap. To remove it, flip the 2 clips and it will come out.

The distributor can now be removed by removing the 2 bolts. You can see one of them in your picture. It has the red head behind the fan belt. Before removing the distributor, notice where the rotor is facing. This will help when you replace. You can set the point gap with the distributor off the tractor. Check for broken wires, especially the thin metal strap that connects to the points. When reinstalling, point the rotor where is was when you took it off. It should slip all the way in. You may have to wiggle the rotor to get it all the way in.

Reinstall dist. cap and coil with gasket. Connect the wire to top of coil. Use a multimeter (volt/ohm meter) to check the voltage to the wire on top of the coil. With the switch on, it should be battery voltage with the point open. I'm not sure what the voltage should be with the points closed since you have converted to 12 volts. On my 6 volt front mount, I get about 3.5 volts with the point closed. Once you measure the voltage with points open and point closed, post back.

My $.02 worth,
Danny

For example, if'n new ignition points were installed, it is quite common for the points to slip. Check 'em.

What we need to know is what is the voltage at the coil terminal. Is it 12 volt battery voltage, some other value? What is it when the ignition points are closed? open?

Don't mucka round bumppen the starter. Put the tractor in gear and push on those great big levers called tires, only have to move the tractor a foot to open/close the ignition points.

Once you have determined what the voltage is at the frontmount ignition coil terminal is, we can help you more better. Otherwize, I flunked mindreading, just ask my ex-wife..... ...Dell

I am going to check the V to the ignition coil and then look at these 'points' --- How do I tell if they are out of position or damaged? Maybe, I will just send some more pics! (grin)

Thanks -
Andy

Some guys hunt for a side mount, not realizing that removing the front one takes about one minute, then you can take it in and work on it on the kitchen table.....well if your wife isn't home

Take Care
Steve

You do not have to remove the hood or radiator to remove the distrubutor. It's held on by two bolts. Be careful reinstalling it. Although the tang is offset and will only go on one way it is possible to think its on correctly and might break something tightning it down.. The coil can be removed without removing the whole unit.