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Weight of a NAA engine?

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Dan

12-30-2004 05:06:59

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I have decided I will dissassemble and reassemble my NAA Project Rustbucket's engine myself. I will obviously need an engine stand to accommodate this project. I am renting an engine lift today for the weekend so I can raise it to the engine stand. My questions are this:

What size (maximum lbs.) engine stand will I need for a fully loaded NAA engine?

Has anyone had any luck with the Harbor Freight engine stands lining up with the bolt holes on the end of the engine? I do not have the equipment to fabricate modification plates. If no experience with the HF models, any reasonable priced engine stand would do.

I would really like to do what Ramrod has done and make some brackets to mount the engine to the stand from the distributor side so you can work on the rear of the engine while it is on the stand, but since I can't fabricate these brackets, what do I need to remove from the rear of the engine before placing it on the stand? I have already removed the rear cam shaft plate and removed the hydraulic pump gear - as that was obvious.

One more - since I am removing all the parts, and just using the machine shop to turn the crank, dip the block, and press out/in new sleeves, can I remove the pistons from the back side once I remove the crank? I don't have a ridge reemer and I have just enough edge to catch my finger nail, so it may give me trouble pushing it out the top. Don't want to buy/rent a ridge reemer unless I have to.

Thanks for all the advice so far.
Dan

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8-N Nut

12-30-2004 09:35:26

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Re: Weight of a NAA engine? in reply to Dan, 12-30-2004 05:06:59

Dan, use the wood end ( the handle) of your hammer, to tap the pistons out thru the top! Keep everthing in order! Rods should be numbered, put them back in same sequence, including caps. I would buy the stand with 'two' wheels in front, much safer! HTH

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jscook Ms

12-30-2004 07:28:42

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Re: Weight of a NAA engine? in reply to Dan, 12-30-2004 05:06:59

Dan, When I put new rings in my NAA I paid a 30.00 deposit at Autozone for a rigde reamer and when I returned it they gave me my deposit back. They usually have a good assortment of tools that you can rent and then return. Good luck

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TIMW(PA)

12-30-2004 07:15:00

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harbor freight engine stand in reply to Dan, 12-30-2004 05:06:59

Dan ...sorry cant help you with the weight on the NAA. But the cheap harbor freight engine stand holds my 2N engine just fine. I did replace all the engine mounting bolts with grade 8's from tsc cause I just didn't like the look of the metric low quality ones they came with. HTH ....Tim

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SKIP

12-30-2004 19:12:50

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Re: harbor freight engine stand in reply to TIMW(PA), 12-30-2004 07:15:00

I have an engine stand from Nothern Tool and it works great on my 8n.Forgot price but I think 79.00

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Dan

12-30-2004 07:19:40

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Re: harbor freight engine stand in reply to TIMW(PA), 12-30-2004 07:15:00

Tim - just what I was looking for! Glad to hear I do not have to fabricate anything for it to mount as is. Do you have a part number or about how much you paid for it?

Thanks a ton,
Dan

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TIMW(PA)

12-30-2004 08:10:55

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Re: harbor freight engine stand in reply to Dan, 12-30-2004 07:19:40

Dan....I dont have a part number. I fortunately have a harbor freight outlet store near me so's I just walked in and bought it. But it was the cheapest one they had, around $39 I believe. It was rated for 900lbs. I asked the exact same question awhile back for my 2N engine and got responses back from 6-8 hundred pounds so I figured it was ok. I wanted to buy an engine hoist too but didn't have the $$$$, so I made do with the transmission jack adapter in my floor jack. It was a bit wobbly and had to have the misses help, but it got on there. They have one for a few more dollars thats rated up to 1500 lbs...your call.
p.s. if you do get one, grease the engine mounting braket where it goes into the stand. I didn't and it is hard to rotate sometimes...plus the hole for the pin to hold it from rotating gets offset from to back and is a bit hard to get back in sometimes. Those are the only problems I had with it. The bolts I bought I made sure had the same thread as the engine mounting bolts and I threaded them right into the block....Later Tim

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Dan

12-30-2004 08:17:29

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Re: harbor freight engine stand in reply to TIMW(PA), 12-30-2004 08:10:55

Thanks Tim. I too have a HF Outlet store real close to me. I am planning on stopping in after work today and see if they have one in stock. The price range you gave me is all I need, I have already researched their stands and know which one you have - thanks. I already bought grade 8 bolts to replace all the perimeter bolts between the engine and tranny, so I should be in good shape there.

Dan

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TIMW(PA)

12-30-2004 08:27:31

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told you wrong sorry in reply to Dan, 12-30-2004 08:17:29

Hey Dan just went out and looked at mine. It is a central machinery item # 32915 rated to 750 lbs. Not the 900 I told you ...sorry. but after you get the oilpan off that lessen it by what feels like a hundred pounds right? :>)....by the way if you do replace bolts make sure you grab a hand full of washers and maybe some big nuts the bolt s will slide through for spacers cause some are blind holes and you dont want to be searching for something when you are trying to mount it.

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greywynd

12-30-2004 06:47:11

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Re: Weight of a NAA engine? in reply to Dan, 12-30-2004 05:06:59

i don't know the ratings for the engine stands that are available, but, if you had something rated for 500 lbs or more, you should be ok. I've never had the luxury of having one myself. I always just left the flywheel on, stood it on the flywheel on cardboard. it does tend to get to your back though.As far as 'brackets' go, all you would need to make them would be a hacksaw and a drill, and some creativity. If you need spacers, you can use nuts a size or 2 larger than your mounting bolts, and flat washers as needed. As far as removing the pistons, most engines require them to come out the top. even with the ridge, they should come out past it. Use a piece of wood (sometimes a wooden handled hammer, hold the head and use the end of the handle) and tap it on out. The rings fit the original bore size (before the ridge) so they will compress past the ridge. Smear a bit of oil on the cylinder walls first, it will help it slide out.

Mark

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corvette8n

12-30-2004 06:30:25

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Re: Weight of a NAA engine? in reply to Dan, 12-30-2004 05:06:59

my $39.95 engine stand from BJ's held a small block Chevy(400 cu.in.) and a Chevy 2.8 V6 at one time or another. I beleive it it rated for 1000lbs. A complete Chrysler Hemi 392 is somewhere around 850lbs.

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Ramrod

12-30-2004 06:28:09

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Re: Weight of a NAA engine? in reply to Dan, 12-30-2004 05:06:59

Hey Dan, the brackets are simple, just a chunk of big angle iron with a 5/8" and 1/2" hole drilled through the faces. The 5/8" goes on the big studs on the front end, and the big thru bolt on the rear end, the 1/2" holes bolt to the HF mounting dogs, the dogs bolt to the HF mounting plate adapter, me and what's-her-name picked it up and slid it into place on the stand. The big HF stand will mount to the rear just as it is, but that won't work for you, can't get to the back side for cam gear, cover plate, fywheel, pressure plate, etc...

You could do it with a hacksaw and a hand drill, I used a chop saw and a drill press, but I woulda done it with hand tools just the same.

Ramrod

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hvw

12-30-2004 06:07:16

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Re: Weight of a NAA engine? in reply to Dan, 12-30-2004 05:06:59

Dan, have you considered buying one of the folding hoist from HF and just leaving the engine on that while you disassemble it. That way you have a hoist anytime you need it.They cost about $150.00. You would not need an engine stand which is much more limited in use than a hoist. Hoist are handy to have around in general. For example removing and installing the lift cover, lifting rear wheels, etc.

I have done that and let the block rest on a support while I fiddled with it. My support was a simple wooden bench I nailed together. The hoist will hold it in place. You can also spin it in any direction. Just an idea, but it made more sense to me than buying an engine stand for one time use. Good luck.

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Marty 2N IL

12-30-2004 07:04:35

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Re: Weight of a NAA engine? in reply to hvw, 12-30-2004 06:07:16

Dan,
Glad to hear you are going to tackle the engine rebuild yourself. You will be proud of your work when you get done. The first engine rebuild I did was on a ford 302. I was like you no engine stand or hoist. I made a swing set out of lumber got the motor out took it a part in the drive way. A friend gave me a create that a new motor came on. It was no more that 2x6's nailed together. I put it in a little 8x8 shed and took the block to the machine shop to dip it and hone the cyclinders. My friend at the shop wasn't charging me full price and when I walked in with the box of pistons, rod caps with nothing stamped on them did he ever give me a cussing. He miked everthing and stamped all the rods and caps for me so when I picked up the block it was ready to go back together. I tuged and pulled on that block in that little shed until I was sore. When I got it together it was to heavy to lift so I put my swing set near the door and picked it up and it swung right out the door. Man was proud when that Mustang fired right up. Anyway a long story just to tell you anything can be done if you try hard enough. I like the hoist idea and you can make a stand out of lumber to set it on. Make sure you set it down before you wrench on it and make sure you mark everything. I know you will be proud of you rustbucket.
Marty

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Dan

12-30-2004 07:17:44

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Re: Weight of a NAA engine? in reply to Marty 2N IL, 12-30-2004 07:04:35

Thanks for the vote of confidence, and the story! It is encouraging to see just how many ways you can skin a cat :)

Dan

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Dan

12-30-2004 06:21:34

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Re: Weight of a NAA engine? in reply to hvw, 12-30-2004 06:07:16

You make a very valid point. My only concern is spinning the engine to get to the top/bottom. It would be hard to do I think if it was on blocks, and because I am doing this in my spare time, it would cost too much to rent an engine stand for a month or more while I work on it.

The rental for the engine lift is $35 a day, and I would need to rent it twice - once to put the engine on the stand, and once more to mount the engine to the tractor. So... in theory that means to purchase my own lift would really only cost me $80 ($150 - $70 rental fees). I wonder if I could convince my wife of this logic...

BTW - I still need to know the approximate weight of the engine so I can get the correct sized lift and engine stand.

Thanks,
Dan

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