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How warm to paint?

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Ringy

03-17-2001 22:48:32




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I've got the old girl all ready to paint, degreased and wire wheeled the whole tractor, just have to wheel it out on a warm day. The last week our daily high temp in Northern MN has been in the high 30's to low 40's. The waiting is killing me. How warm does it have to be to paint? I can roll it back into a heated shed (50 to 60 degrees depending on outside temp.) after painting. I took a picture today with a digital camera but I have to download onto a Macintosh computer. I'll post monday at work so you can all see a before and after pic. Also, any last minute pointers that might help me do a better job? Thanks in advance.

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fessman

03-18-2001 12:14:33




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 Re: How warm to paint? in reply to Ringy, 03-17-2001 22:48:32  
One other thing to note on the temperature to paint at. I painted my boat trailer several years back in the fall. It was a nice warm day with no wind. I spent the entire day getting everything ready to paint and then paint. When the end of the day rolled around I was beat and I left the trailer outside overnite. It wasn't that cold out, but it was cold enough that I got an orange peel texture on the thin sheet metal. The thicker steel was not a problem, since it held some warmth through the night. The orange peel is not bad, but had I known I would have put the wheels on and pushed the trailer back in the garage. I don't remember the type of paint, other than two part automotive type.

Fessman

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Al English

03-18-2001 05:52:47




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 Re: How warm to paint? in reply to Ringy, 03-17-2001 22:48:32  
Hi Ringy, The temperature of the paint matters, but it's less important than the temp. of the part it's going onto. There are a variety of problems that can result from painting in too low a temperature, and the likelihood of these problems occurring varies with the type of paint being used. Many times over the years I've gotten away with painting too cold. But then there was the time I came into my shop after a weekend of the thermostat being dialed down, turned it up, waited a couple of hours, then started painting. Unfortunately the parts were still too cold. The relatively warm air began curing the surface of the paint while the cold parts made the underlying paint cure more slowly. It was a big costly mess, and my entire shop spent several days stripping the job back to bare metal and re-doing everything. I have no idea why that particular job went wrong when I had gotten away with the same thing before. Like most of our work, that was a show finish paint job, and were talking about an old tractor here. But after learning the hard way, I wouldn't take the chance again, no matter what was being painted. Anytime you ask for trouble there's always a chance you'll get it. Good luck...Al English

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9N'er

03-18-2001 07:47:57




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 Re: Re: How warm to paint? in reply to Al English, 03-18-2001 05:52:47  
Al: question. Painting a fender today. Using alkyd enamel. Above the raised script, one spot continues to orange peel/alligator. I have the rest of the fender looking great, don't want to strip it down. Can I let it cure for a day or two, then sand down and blend those areas, prime and re-paint and have it look barely discernible? Or, do I remove the paint now? and swear a little? thank in advance. 9N'er

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Al English

03-18-2001 09:09:37




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 Re: Re: Re: How warm to paint? in reply to 9N'er, 03-18-2001 07:47:57  
Hi 9N'er, I'm guessing the problem you're having is what's called fisheye. It is caused by contamination in the paint. air supply, or more likely, on the part. As you wwere thinking, let it cure for a few days, sand it down, clean it very well with wax & grease remover, sand and clean it again, spot prime if needed, and re-paint. Spot repairing grey doesn't always work out, as the white and black pigments are very different in weight and as a result settle out differently, which will be evident at the edges of the repair. The safest thing to do is wet sand the entire fender with at least 400 grit(600 grit would be better), spot in the repair, then give the entire fender another coat. Fisheyes can be a real bear, so if that's your problem, and it starts acting up again when you spot in the area, it's back to another round of cleaning and sanding. Good luck...Al English

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9n'er

03-18-2001 10:24:34




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: How warm to paint? in reply to Al English, 03-18-2001 09:09:37  
thanks. You describe it well. This was the second go-around for that spot. Same thing the first time, paint lifted, crinkled etc. Small area about the size of a quarter and other area around the script. I stripped the entire fender, sanded it all down washed with lacquer thinner twice, re-pprimed, and then topcoated...only to see the exact same thing in the same spot happen again. And, it woud 'figger', that it's around the Ford script, which makes sanding a new standard for patience. I suspected it was to let it cure and re-sand the entire fender, wash that area again with degreaser and wax remover, then some light wiping with thinner again, and then shoot the whole fender. By the time I'm done, there should be more paint than metal. thanks again. 9N'er

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Al English

03-18-2001 11:19:12




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: How warm to paint? in reply to 9n'er, 03-18-2001 10:24:34  
9N'er, Since you definitely have a fisheye problem I should tell you there are paint additives that are supposed to help. However, I don't use them, and wouldn't recommend them. Using thinner rather than wax & grease remover will do a better job, but thinner will attack the paint so be careful. Also try cleaning the area with laundry detergent & water, as some kinds of contamination aren't removed by solvent. When you think you've finally got the area sanitized spray 2 or 3 very thin dry coats of primer allowing each to dry before applying the next. Follow that with one standard coat of primer. Sometimes this will help. If there are any silicone, Armor-All, Scotch-Guard or similar products in the paint area find a new home for them. These are nothing but trouble around paint. Hang in there...Al English

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9n'er

03-18-2001 17:17:02




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: How warm to paint? in reply to Al English, 03-18-2001 11:19:12  
followed your advice per se' and so far so good. Primer is on for the night and letting it completely dry. Used 400 grit, wet sanded the fender, used a scraper and just scraped away the paint around in in the script. Lightly sanded that area, ground dowm two slight bumps that were eye catching and bothersome, filled with filler, sanded and primed. The extra effort, by re-doing it as you suggest paid off so far. No meddlesome bumps in the sheet metal now that the gloss paint showed . Will topcoat tomorrow. 9N'er (thanks) (sure enjoy this stuff, it's interesting, fun, and seeing the results when they are decent is rewarding.)

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Paul - Pine Island MN

03-18-2001 05:18:00




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 Re: How warm to paint? in reply to Ringy, 03-17-2001 22:48:32  
I live in the balmy southern part of MN and am getting ready to paint myself. I don't want to do it twice so I'll wait until the tractor is at the temperature the paint can says (it is so warm here we don't need heated sheds except maybe for painting) I figure it will be in the 60's in another month. I'll hang around reading about everyone else doing it til then.



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Richard(WY)

03-18-2001 00:01:46




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 Re: How warm to paint? in reply to Ringy, 03-17-2001 22:48:32  
well you have to wipe it down with enamel thinner and then prime it. Do it in the heat of the day and roll it indoors. I live in the cold part of the world too. I have painted outside when it was in the 30s, just light coats and lots of drying time. no problems yet, but you might check with the N Board's paint guru, Bob Gaddis. (bg=board guru)



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Richard(WY)

03-18-2001 00:00:18




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 Re: How warm to paint? in reply to Ringy, 03-17-2001 22:48:32  
well you have to wipe it down with enamel thinner and then prime it. Do it in the heat of the day and roll it indoors. I live in the cold part of the world too. I have painted outside when it was in the 30s, just light coats and lots of drying time. no problems yet, but you might check with the N Board's paint guru, Bob Gaddis. (bg=board guru)



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