Cordwood saw hardware

i'm looking for a little information. I'm trying to find out what the bolts looked like that kept the wood table on the cordwood saw from extending out too far. The framework has 1/2" holes, but the triangle formed by the two pieces pivoting would suggest to me that either the "bolts" were curved or if they were straight, no larger than 3/8" in diameter. If anybody has a manual on this, I could use either a scanned page or just tell me what the entry is for these two bolts. It would also be helpful to know how long the springs were as well. My rough measurements show that they should be in the neighborhood of 6" long when the table is extended. Thanks!

Jeb

In my thinking that thing is about the most dangerous machine that was ever mass produced and the makers of them today would be sued out of business before the first 100 were sold.

I was watching a tractor video yesterday of two men using one and it was scareing me to death just to watch. One false move and one of them was going to loose a member. It is just not worth the cost to try to use one of these saws.

A chain saw is dangerous enough in itself but it it a thousand times less dangerous than a cord wood saw and a lot more effecient.

Please don't use the saw. Build it for show but don't cut any wood with it.

Zane

I agree..these things have saved me many hours and are safe as long as one operates themn in a safe manner! Of course, they were produced before the $#@%^$# LAWYERS took over this fine nation! If you can't use them safely, please don't try! Let the rest of us do it, OK?? Too many laws getting passed to protect us from ourselves! My opinion only!! GRRRR!!! ;-)

"The Widowmaker"

Jeb

No, I won't be at the Louisville show. I always go to Moultrie, GA, but they never send me to any of the others. If you are there, ask for a guy named Raymond Bullock, he's a close co-worker of mine. Also, you'll see some giant 8'x8' panels against one wall that they had me work on. That is, if we can get them to stand up on their own.

As for the guard, we can't burn anything that small here. We had a sheet metal nibbler that would do it perfectly, but it's unplugged right now and in another building. As soon as it's back up, i'll get one made. The bad thing is, when I had them shop blast my blade, it warped the heck out of it and now it wobbles about an inch side-to-side from heat warpage. I'm going to try to push and tug to get it back reasonably straight, but i'm also considering sources for a new blade or blade repair.

Could you give me any heads up on your springs and bolts for the table? I went back and looked at your pictures and it looks like you drilled an extra set of holes closer to the bottom for the springs so they wouldn't have to be so long. Is that true? Thanks!

Jeb

If one is to burn wood, there is *work* involved, unless "modern think" is used... meaning hire someone ELSE to do the hard work for you. Work means equipment and equipment means USE YOUR HEAD. I don't get it where folks just love and admire all the "OLD IRON" and want to apply OSHA college safety to everything. "Don't use a rachet, the socket could slip and you'll bust a knuckle". Then in the next breath run out and buy the cheapest thing possible from Harbor Frieght.

To me, it's fairly simple. If you don't know what you're doing, keep away, don't do it.

Cordwood sawing is hard work, and usually a three man operation. Respect the capability of the machine and take charge of it. I LIKE my saw rigs. And my chain saw. And I respect the pointy edges!! duey

We now have it on prominant display between the house and the "Big Barn" for all to see. This brings back good memories! GA Jim

steveormary