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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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carburators and sealents

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ozark kurt

02-13-2005 15:42:31




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A long time ago I was told that I shouldn't use a gasket sealer compund when attaching a carburator to the manifold.(you will need to take that off frequently) I have always needed starting fluid to get the initial start of the day. The gasket always looked compessed, tight and showed no signs of leakage or suction. Yesterday I replaced the carburator and noticed that know matter how tight the studs were the carburator had a gap (visible and showed leakage of fuel after repeated start attempts}. Could the lack of a sealing compound have been my problem all along?

Question 2
Will a properly adjusted carburator leak fuel when the fuel is left open. A small amount leaks from the air intake connection.

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gshadel

02-14-2005 12:23:44




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 Re: carburators and sealents in reply to ozark kurt, 02-13-2005 15:42:31  
Ozark,
The last gasket I got (in a rebuild kit) was thin paper. I used it as a template and made a thicker gasket out of cork. I also noted my carb flange wasn't as flat as I would have liked, and took a file to it to try to flatten it out a little better.
Like the other guys said, these carbs tend to let gas leak by the needle when not running, the weight of the gas in your tank is pushing on the needle valve all the time. Make sure your gas shutoff is working good. My #1 cause for poor starting was due to the carb bowl being over-filled (gas dripping out the air intake). The carb can't pull and vaporize gas right when it is flooded. Once I got a new gas shutoff, problem was solved.

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farmalljim10

02-14-2005 04:58:04




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 Re: carburators and sealents in reply to ozark kurt, 02-13-2005 15:42:31  
why not just use two gaskets make sure you dont need washers on nuts and I was always taught to use grease on gaskets on air intake .also if it leaks gas it is probably the needle and seat or flote adjustment.



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old

02-13-2005 17:21:25




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 Re: carburators and sealents in reply to ozark kurt, 02-13-2005 15:42:31  
Some time due to old age the manifold and or the carb can get out of flat, I.E. one or both faces are not flat like they should be but its not very common.



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HOOKER

02-13-2005 17:20:58




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 Re: carburators and sealents in reply to ozark kurt, 02-13-2005 15:42:31  
thats a float/needle letting the gas come through the carb.,split the carb, pull the float pin out, then the float will lift off, then look at the little needle that goes into that small hole, take an air compressor and blow through the inlet connection (the one that the line from your tank) then blow it the other direction from the small hole in the carb(were the needle goes), then check the needle, if it has a rubber tip check it if not make sure the brass is not grooved. bolt it all back together should start up with a little choke or maybe no choke. as for the carb gasket i use 1/32" cork make sure nuts have lock washers and are tight. the sediment bowl gasket is cork use the bowl as a template
all your problems are solved till new ones araise and since you own a tractor now welcome to the world of wrenchen
good luck

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Dan

02-13-2005 16:05:56




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 Re: carburators and sealents in reply to ozark kurt, 02-13-2005 15:42:31  
Use NO sealants on the carb to manifold connection. There should be a thick paper gasket that goes in between this connection. Make sure the studs are screwed all the way into the carb top, and use lock washers under the nuts. In this configuration, it should be tight with no gaps.

All Marvel Schebler carbs leak at some time or the other. I have had freshly rebuilt carbs leak. Get in the habit of shutting off the fuel at the shut-off valve under the gas tank - it will save you a ton of headaches.

Good luck,
Dan

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Jimmy D

02-13-2005 17:30:27




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 Re: carburators and sealents in reply to Dan, 02-13-2005 16:05:56  
First,you should never use sealants on any feul related part. Gas can break them down, causing them to be ingested into the engine and create even more trouble, other than not sealing for very long at all.

If the leak is happening at the carb mounting surface with a new paper gasket, that is an indication of a warped mating surface on either the carb or the manifold. Clean both mounting surfaces and check for warping with a flat surface, such as a metal ruler (side edge). I doubt that is the issue, especially since this is an updraft carb. Most fuel leaks from the carb area are caused by either a mis-adjusted float level or a leaky float needle valve or seat. If your baby is running good and doesn't leak while the engine is running, I would suggest you leave it be and get into the habbit of shutting the fuel off when not running, (a good idea anyway). If it's leaking with the engine running, it really should be addressed. My suggestion would be to remove the carb and connect it to your feul supply. Much easier to identify the problem area if your mounting suraces are not the issue.

I hope this helps.
P.S. If mounting surface is warped, a machine shop can shave either the carb or the intake surface flat again a lot cheaper that replacement. Carb = $152 at TSC

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