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OT Floor heat

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rjohn wi

02-25-2005 21:40:05




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Question for someone that has hot water floor heat in their shop. How warm should the water be that is circulated in the tubing in a cement floor. I have heard anywheres from 90 degrees to 130 degrees. I run mine at about 130 but someone told me that was to hot and would break down the cement in time. Thanks a lot Roger




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rjohn wi

02-26-2005 10:33:33




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 Re: OT Floor heat in reply to rjohn wi, 02-25-2005 21:40:05  
Thanks for your coments. I have heated the shop now (24X30) this winter and am more than satisified with it. I have a Aqua Therm outdoor furnace that I have heated my house with now for almost 20 years and was a little apprehensive about adding the shop to it but it still works fine. In temps to -40 degrees it took a little more wood but the shop temp remained very constant. About 55 degrees. I just didn't want to hurt the cement floor with too high a water temp.. Roger

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Erik Graham

02-26-2005 07:07:11




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 Re: OT Floor heat in reply to rjohn wi, 02-25-2005 21:40:05  
I have done a fair amount of reading about radiant heating this winter as I am thinking of building a new house. One common theme that I have run across is that a properly designed system has to account for a calculated heat loss. A contractor would look at things like slab thickness, distance from boiler to slab,under slab insulation,heat source for boiler,number of zones and so on. A well designed system has a boiler that provides slightly more than 100 percent of required BTU's. A larger than required boiler costs more and uses more fuel, a smaller than required is ineffecient. Many of the systems that I looked at use glycol in the tubing as it is a better conductor of heat and it doesn't freeze. I tried unsuccessfully to get a couple of quotes from contractors over the net and the standard response (at least for a residential app.) was that they would have to do an energy audit to calculate the BTU/hour potential heat loss. The 130 degrees that yours is set for might be perfect for your building. The factor that could lead to cracking would more likely be related to rapid heat loss/gain cycles.

Cheers, Erik

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BigGeorge

02-26-2005 06:39:07




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 Re: OT Floor heat in reply to rjohn wi, 02-25-2005 21:40:05  
Rjohn, I have in-floor heating in my garage. The contractor has my boiler set at 130 degrees. Its been 5 years now and not so much as a crack anywhere in the floor. My worst fear was losing power for 3 or 4 days and the tubing freezing and breaking so I invested in a generator. I have heard that you can put Antifreeze in the lines but when I asked my heating contractor about this he said not to do it but never gave me a reason why.

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schultz47

02-26-2005 04:52:34




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 Re: OT Floor heat in reply to rjohn wi, 02-25-2005 21:40:05  
I installed mine using an electric water heater for heating the water. Contractor where I bought the parts says water heater thermostat should be set at 120 degrees. HTH



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HOOKER

02-26-2005 04:36:41




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 Re: OT Floor heat in reply to rjohn wi, 02-25-2005 21:40:05  
i'm getting ready to intall piping this next week, the engineer that designed mine(cuz we live in a housing addition-codes/inspections and all that crap) told me that i should run mine at
75-90 after hearing 90-130 that makes me wonder if mines gonna be warm enough, my piping will be on 10 1/2" centers.



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RWK in WI

02-26-2005 17:09:42




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 Re: OT Floor heat in reply to HOOKER, 02-26-2005 04:36:41  
The under 100° is for under wood floors and or carpet as in houses.
The over 120° is for thermal mass floors as concrete in shops etc.



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rjohn wi

02-27-2005 06:46:01




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 Re: OT Floor heat in reply to RWK in WI, 02-26-2005 17:09:42  
Thanks RWK in WI; Roger. I am in north western WI



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