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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Got multi-meter, now what?

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8ngreenhorn

03-06-2005 08:16:30




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Anybody able to tell me the places where I can check what 'lectric I got and what the readings should be? As an example, (I got an 8-volt battery, came with it)should I have 8 volts at the neg. post of my coil, and so forth. What's the charge at the points? Too, walk me through setting the points. Is the distance from the contacts?

Thanks




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Larry 8N75381

03-06-2005 10:55:07




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 Re: now what? - DO this. in reply to 8ngreenhorn, 03-06-2005 08:16:30  
You have all ready been told that an 8V battery is just a "band-aid" to get around other problems, so plan on getting rid of it! For one thing, your generator is probably not charging it anyway.

Now, since you have told us that the guy before you did a "band-aid" job at the battery, I suspect that he ALSO did the same else where. So the next thing after the battery is the battery cables. As Dell would say, "DO NOT use those wimpy 12v ones you get at Wallyworld or similar places." The 6V battery system needs LOW resistance, EVERY WHERE! So starting at the battery you need #4 wire cables, MINIMUM, and most guys use #2. Next would to be sure that the spark plug wires are SOLID copper, not wires for a car that are carbon filiment, and high resistance to help suppress the noise so your radio is not noisy. If the rest of the wiring looks cobbled up in any way, buy a brand new wiring harness. All the wires will be the proper size and have clean lugs on them. They are cheap and available several places, including this board. Only if you want original style wiring, cause you are doing a restoration, with the cost be high - even then I think it is still a bargan when you consider the time, etc. you would spend doing it yourself.

CLEAN, BRIGHT, and TIGHT are the watch words for a 6V system. Those things and proper components ,like battery cables the right size, will be all your N need as far as electrics go to run FINE.

Your meter will be a help if you have problems with the points, such as the rubbing block wearing down so the points don"t open. OR when you have a short or open in the distributor. You should also use it to check the generator output when you change batteries. You do not want it over charge a new battery. And it could be that the guy before you did up the generator output to try to charge that 8V battery.

I keep my battery terminals from corroding, I coat them with RTV rubber (like bathtub caulk, but clear) the whole clamp back onto the wire to the insulation and down onto the battery case so that there is no exposed metal. I start with putting the RTV on the battery terminal and inside the clamp before I put the clamp on the battery. The idea is to not have any voids in the rubber where acid could gather, especially under the clamp near the battery case. That is why I put the rubber on the battery terminal, down at the base of the terminal all around it, at first. I get twice the battery life as the warrenty (even have gotten more) by doing that. when I finally remove the battery the terminals are still clean. The rubber is soft so it can easily be torn off when needed.

Regards,
Larry

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Rob N Va

03-06-2005 19:06:58




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 Re: now what? - DO this. in reply to Larry 8N75381, 03-06-2005 10:55:07  
What he said, and...

Most folks will say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I am not gonna tell you that. If I had taken my starter and generator to a rebuild shop to begin with I could have saved myself loads of time and aggravation. It cost 50 bucks for each rebuild (starter and genny respectively) another 25 bucks for the voltage regulator and about 3 hours of my time for the re-wire. My home-made wiring harness is far more sturdy than the ones I have seen at TSC and elsewhere. I used crimp on ends that I also soldered on and used heat shrink tubes on. The materials probably cost me 25 bucks for the re-wire. In any event, I couldn't recommend that you rewire that tractor any more highly. You will get to know your electrical system and have the confidence that it was done right. The 8volt battery is probably the result of a starter not spinning the engine over fast enough. This could be the result of a starter going south, which a quality rebuild will cure. As an extra added bonus, they look great when they are sandblasted and painted!! Check back and let us know what your results are. Hope I helped!---Rob

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Bruce (VA)

03-06-2005 09:39:00




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 Re: Got multi-meter, now what? in reply to 8ngreenhorn, 03-06-2005 08:16:30  
I don't think you will find 1 guy out of 20 on this board who will tell you an 8v battery is a good idea. Get rid of it; for now, go w/6v until you get it running right & then you can determine if you want/need to convert it to 12v. All that 8v is doing, long term, is burning up your points & square can coil (assuming you have a frontmount) Regarding the voltage readings, I can give them to you for 6v, and plenty of other folks around here can tell you what it should be for 12v, but who knows what it should be for 8v?!! And, is it a frontmount or sidemount distributor..... .makes a big difference in setting the points.

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James41-9n

03-06-2005 08:44:50




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 Re: Got multi-meter, now what? in reply to 8ngreenhorn, 03-06-2005 08:16:30  
why 8 volts, if it is an unconverted 6 you might have blown resisters or something else, I would say get back to 6 or move up to 12. Also, here is what I do...

1 Read the manual 3 times for the section I need to work on.

2 Search the previous postings for questions already asked, try to understand what someone else was doing, what problems they had, and what were possible solutions.

3 Ask my specific question trying to give all the thoughts that I have about the problem.

Usually you will get a re-affirmation of what you already have learned, support for what you are about to do, and a few more hints of what you might be getting into.

Good luck on your project, I was there a couple of weeks ago. James

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Ron/PA

03-06-2005 08:37:20




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 Re: Got multi-meter, now what? in reply to 8ngreenhorn, 03-06-2005 08:16:30  
SETTING POINTS
Now open your I&T FO-4 Shop manual to Page 56 and begin at paragraph 85, and follow through paragraph 87. (for front mount distributor) or begin with paragraph 88 and follow through paragraph 91. (for side mount distributor.) Front mounts distributors are removed to replace, and adjust points, so's you can do it while watching a ball game. Side mounts, you'll have to stand out in the cold and listen to the game on a radio. Get to know that manual, it'll be your best friend some days. Ron

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