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In addition to the excelent info by Bob, you can also get ignition parts at TSC stores ( not sure if you have TSC in Oregon ).. they sell the points cap, rotor, plugs.. etc. These units use a metal core plug wire.. not a modern emi/rfi wires. fire order is 1243 and plugs are champion h12 or al 437.. OEM was an h10.. however the h12/al437 works better with modern fuels. Plug gap is .025 Also.. don't use the same feeler gauge for your plugs and points.. unless you reall clean it first. Points don't like any dirt or grease on the contacts. Best check of the front mount ignition coil is on the tractor, and seeing if you get spark. If you are handy with an ohm meter you can do a simple go/no go test by measuring ohm on a low scale from the top post to the curly spring.. and ohms on a high scale from the top post to the flat tab. A 'good' reading might be between 1/2 and 2 ohms on the clurly spring.. and 4-7k on the flat tab. This just means you have continuity.. coil could still be technically 'bad'. Also.. don't overlook the dash mounted ballast resistor. All hooked up and key on, look for 2.5-3.5v on top of the coil, with points closed.. and full battery volts points open.. asuming 6v electrical system, and oem style coil. Check and clean all electrical connections from the battery to the key switch, to the resistor, to the coil... etc. Soundguy OEM battery polarity is positive ground.
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