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Yes, you can do this. If you had 2 floor jacks, it would be better, but here's what I did. You will only need to split your tractor where the engine meets the flywheel housing (except for the oil pan thing). I would split the tractor here first. Take your floor jack and (before removing any bolts) jack the tractor up directly beneath the flywheel cover. Only jack enough to take weight off the front end, not enough to lift the wheels off the ground. Now, take some 4x4's or landscaping timbers and build a lincoln-log style lattice work or cribbing underneath the engine. When it gets close, start sliding pieces of flat metal bar or wooden slats under there and get as close as you can. Lower the jack enough to put the weight back on the front wheels and the cribbing, but make sure the jack still supports the flywheel housing. Now, remove the flywheel housing to engine bolts and roll the rear half away from the engine. Don't forget to chock the front wheels and take some zip ties or big radiator hose clamps and secure the drag link rods to the radius rods to keep the front wheels from trying to turn. DON"T FORGET to put some wooden door wedges between the front axle and the axle support; otherwise your engine will flop over to one side and then you'll need new underwear. Do the gear and tranny seal first. and then go after the oil pan and timing cover. You'll probably have to remove the front axle to gain axcess to the timing cover and front half of the oil pan, but you can do this with the engine and rear end still supported by the cribbing. The fun part is getting the tranny and engine to go back together again smoothly. Jeb
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