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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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double question (long)

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Rusty8N

03-21-2005 08:39:34




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Backgound: 8N front mount distributor...recently rebuilt engine...with advice and archives on this board got it from "not running, too tight to turn" to running pretty nicely...had gone through carb and sparking issues raised daily on this board...started up like a charm...cut 3 hrs in the pasture about a month ago...was happy!

About 2 weeks later, I took it out for some exercise, just to hit a few spots I missed in the pasture and give it a chance to run (as it is at a week-end only place)...started and ran well, but boiled over after about 10-15 min....back to the archives...found several admonitions against filling rad to the top and even against using 100% antifreeze (guilty of both), and probably not water pump since no signs of weepage or noise...OK...back up there this week-end...after watching deserving WVA clip my undesrving Deacons Saturday night, I went out to the barn and started her up...my intention was to watch the liquid (had added about 1 gal or less water after first boil over, but still filled near the top of rad) in rad and see if it started to circulate....after about 10 min...I think it did but immediately thereafter it spit probably 1/2 gallon right out the top....continued running fine for about 5 more min did not add more liquid, no more came out....shut down...it was steaming from the stuff that had got sprayed all over...decided it was as disappointing as the deacons, and went to bed....next morning...one bitty cough and then no start...ether no help...and confirmed no spark at the plugs....juice at the top of the coil...took out distributer...dried it out with haidryer and sitting in the sun...did not do multimeter diagnostics, but points gap was OK and everything looked good and dry...put it back in...still no spark....

Questions: 1) what about this running 3 hrs with no over-heating and now overheating in 10 min (I forgot to say...no water in oil or at least on oil stick)

2) I assume it stopped sparking cause some thing got wet...I guess I'll have dist back off and multimeter check it...but any other ideas as to what should I check first???

Thanks...Rusty

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Rob

03-21-2005 10:56:13




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 Hard to know why it boiled over after running in reply to Rusty8N, 03-21-2005 08:39:34  
fine for 3-hours only weeks before. Maybe you had the brake set. Maybe you blew a head gasket.

Do you smell exhaust in the radiator? Did you retorque the head after running an hour or so? You might retorque if you haven"t. And remove the water down to the radiator core. And not a cup more or you will just complicate matters because she will spit out any excess and you will imagine it"s "boiling over."

So retorque the head, get the coolant level correct, make sure you release the brakes, and see what happens next time.

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Rusty8N

03-21-2005 13:04:21




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 Re: Hard to know why it boiled over after running in reply to Rob, 03-21-2005 10:56:13  
Thanks Rob...I did retorque the head bolts after an hr...this was before the successful 3 hours of mowing...the latest boil-over was while idleing in the barn, so no issue of brakes...the only sign i know of blown head gasket is water in oil, is that correct?? Don't see any.

I will follow your advice, once I get her running again, thanks.



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Rob

03-21-2005 14:02:52




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 Boiled over at idle. Is the radiator plugged in reply to Rusty8N, 03-21-2005 13:04:21  
with grass and weed seeds in the fins? Mowing grass and weeds taller than axle high will do that. You can wash it out or blow it out with air or both. You should be able to look through the radiator and see your hand moving on the other side.

Check the belt tension. 1/2" movement half way between the crank pulley and generator. Put both hands on the genny pulley and try to turn it. It shouldn"t slip.

Sounds like you aren"t moving air across the radiator when it"s sitting still.

Maybe it"s a thermostat problem but I don"t know that it could be.

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jiminoystercreek

03-22-2005 03:05:23




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 Re: Boiled over at idle. Is the radiator plugged in reply to Rob, 03-21-2005 14:02:52  
I like Rob's answer here. I've had this happen to me (Plugged radiator from weeds/seeds).

I'm curious if you can see water circulation or movement in the radiator prior to the boil over incidents, indicating a functioning water pump and thermostat.
I'm thinking that maybe if its a water pump/thermostat issue, when the water in the block gets real good and hot, its popping the thermostat and dumping real hot water into the radiator, where it quickly forms steam- resulting in boil over. Just a thought.

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Rusty8N

03-22-2005 07:28:12




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 Re: Boiled over at idle. Is the radiator plugged in reply to jiminoystercreek, 03-22-2005 03:05:23  
There really may be something to Rob's answer....the 3 hrs mowing with no over-heating ended up with cutting some high weeds pretty near the end....the rad was covered with thistle ....I brushed the visible stuff off, but did not check if all the spaces between fins are now clear...great detective thought...thanks, I'll let you know...
Rusty



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souNdguy

03-21-2005 10:34:04




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 Re: double question (long) in reply to Rusty8N, 03-21-2005 08:39:34  
You only add enough water to just cover the core.

I'm guessing that that burp you saw and then it belched out the excess half gallon of water really wet the ignition good.

Use your vom, and check the voltage at the top of the coil.. turn the engine over by hand and see if the voltage changes.. if it doesn't.. points arent closing, or ther eis no contact from the pigtail wire to the points screw, or you have something broken connecting to the points.

If the voltage does change.. you really should be getting spark.

post back

Soundguy

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Rusty8N

03-21-2005 12:58:17




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 Re: double question (long) in reply to souNdguy, 03-21-2005 10:34:04  
Sounder, thanks for responding...just to be explict...I attach one probe of multimeter to screw terminal at the top of the coil and to ground with the other...then how do I "turn it over by hand"...??? do you mean turn it enough to move the dist cam to open or close points?? what is the best way to do that?? (I used to try to turn it by fan blades or by rocking in 4th gear after rebuild, but it was always too tight, have not tried it since it has been running) I assume voltage changes will mean points opening closing OK...Rusty

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Rob

03-21-2005 14:09:47




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 Re: double question (long) in reply to Rusty8N, 03-21-2005 12:58:17  
You can bump the starter to turn it. You might have to bump it a couple-few times to see the volts change. Also, if you bump it and the ammeter goes from 0 to discharge 4 or 6A or something then the points are closed. The ammeter should bounce from 0 (points open) to discharge (points closed) and back to 0 and discharge again showing the points opening and closing.
Ignition on.



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souNdguy

03-21-2005 13:13:41




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 Re: double question (long) in reply to Rusty8N, 03-21-2005 12:58:17  
Yep and yep.. I pull the plugs to make it turn over easier using the fan belt..

Soundguy



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