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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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rear weight

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RandyNark

03-21-2005 19:12:01




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Hey guys I don't think I have ever heard anyone question rear weight. I have two 8n & 9n and have fought with the problem of lack of down pressure on three point for a long time. I want repsonses from Zane & Dell & all the other experts who are great help to us less fornunates. Many of the implements, (such as a grader blade), we use on the N's need more weight to make to make them work better, what is your prefered method and how can we do it for our tractors. thanks in advance!!

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Dean

03-22-2005 05:56:57




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 Re: rear weight in reply to RandyNark, 03-21-2005 19:12:01  
A convenient way to add weight to either a box blade or grader blade is to hang several suitcase weights to the blade. Of course this assumes that you have some suitcase weights. As these are usually not cheap, there are more cost effective ways to add weight if you do not have any.

Dean



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Erik Graham

03-22-2005 05:17:37




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 Re: rear weight in reply to RandyNark, 03-21-2005 19:12:01  
I think the answer depends on a number of issues.
How handy are you and do you have access to a welder? If so I would fabricate a bin or box that can be either welded to or bolted on your implement. If you need weight on more than one implement you should design something that is easy to transfer from one to the other. If you don't have a lifting device (engine crane or 3 pt crane) better make your weights bite sized so you can use the "Armstrong" method of moving them. Steel is heavier (per unit of volume) than cement but considerably more expensive. I keep my eye out for unclaimed scrap steel. I recently rescued 50 3" round pieces of steel that weigh 16 lbs. each, individually manageable and compact. The standard milk crate will contain about 250 lbs of this size of steel "log". You have to balance the added weight with your tractor's ability to lift it. I know lot's of farmers that do use logs and paving stones for implements, but a lot of implements have a hydraulic cylinder to help with lifting and setting of depth. I'm always mindful of what I have to lift, being the same age as my tractor.

Cheers, Erik

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HOOKER

03-21-2005 20:23:28




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 Re: rear weight in reply to RandyNark, 03-21-2005 19:12:01  
i added 140# to my box then went with 3/4" cutting blades on both sides,,, yes it is heavy when ya go to lift it but man-o-man does it cut like going through warm butter
hope that the answer yer lookin for
jake



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Roughstock

03-21-2005 19:37:33




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 Re: rear weight in reply to RandyNark, 03-21-2005 19:12:01  
Do like us Okies. Throw a bigger log on it.



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BillM (OH)

03-21-2005 22:41:10




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 Re: rear weight in reply to Roughstock, 03-21-2005 19:37:33  
Up here in Ohohoho I use RR ties -- square -- don't roll off as easy as logs :^)



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Roughstock

03-22-2005 15:08:49




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 Re: rear weight in reply to BillM (OH), 03-21-2005 22:41:10  
Actually we use whatever is availible. Rims,blocks,logs,ties,and If we can't find one of those we tell our wife to stand on it and HOLD ON.



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Dell (WA)

03-21-2005 19:30:44




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 Re: rear weight in reply to RandyNark, 03-21-2005 19:12:01  
Randy..... ...yep, theres a good reason why yer hydraulics don't have enny down pressure, down pressure will LIFT YER REAR TIRES and ya won't go ennywharrs. You think you need more down pressure, ADD EXTERNAL WEIGHT. Simple, eh?

Remember; its power up and GRAVITY DOWN..... .....repectfully, Dell



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RandyNark

03-21-2005 19:34:31




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 Re: rear weight in reply to Dell (WA), 03-21-2005 19:30:44  
Thanks Dell, but my question is how is the best way to add weight.



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Russ in SoCal

03-22-2005 14:31:52




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 Re: rear weight in reply to RandyNark, 03-21-2005 19:34:31  
Randy,
I"ve got a piece of railroad track with a couple strategic boltholes. Most of the time it"s a drag for our dirt road, but it has been bolted to my single row disc. Probably could use J bolts to hang a piece on a grader blade.
Please be careful where ya go shopping for it.
Russ



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