Advantages of 12 Volt Versus 6 Volt for an 8N

Having said all that. In some cases it is just a bandaid for other problems that will have to be addressed sooner or later.

Bottom line... 6 volt is fine, for the person wanting to convert they have reasons, valid to them, for wanting 12 volt. Which by the way IS the only one that counts.

When your tractor sits for months out on your recreational land which is a 6+ hour drive from home, is 2 miles from the nearest electrical outlet, 40 miles from an auto parts store, you have a taiwan socket set and 2 bent screwdrivers for tools, 12V looks pretty good. Jump it W/the truck or swap batteries, alt goes you can get one at most parts houses or junkyard same day reasonable price. The fact is many of these tractors now only see occasional use and are not everyday workhorses. It just makes life much easier to repair or jump them with 12V. Our '46 2N in town where I have everything I need and can wait for parts is 6V, the 8N on the property as described is 12V. I keep a spare alt at the farm for the tractor or the crawler. Even at home I have 3 used GM alternators in stock for my plow truck.

'Restoration' would hardly call for converting to 12V. In fact it would require the opposite, change back to 6V if someone had already converted it.

This topic comes up constantly and while I doubt there is anyone who could not dream up a valid reason to convert to 12 volts (if the right circumstances were in place) most of the group here seems to be pretty content with their 6V systems. My tractor runs very nicely with the 6V system.

The reason most un-knowledgeable people want to convert to 12v is because good ol'Billy-Bob down at the local spittin-n-whittlin' club sez its tha' thang ta-doo while he takes 'nutter swigg of barley-pops and everyone nodds in agreement. Yep, thang ta-doo.

My take; everyone should ask the question why 6v? 6v was the smallest & cheapest battery system that could reliably turn and start an engine back in the development of the electric starter by Cadilac in 1912. Today, everyone is used to the whizz of modern 12v sewing-machine starter motors and find the sloooww rour...rour...rump of the N's 6v starter motor SCARY.

Then there's the "band-aide" effect of 12v on a 6v starter motor for starting a worn-out low compression motor by really whizzin'itt!!! And NO, 12v on a 6v starter motor doesn't hurt it for the VERY SHORT TIME it takes to start yer whizzed N-Engine..... ....respectfully, Dell a 12v advocate for the right reasons

That said, I haven't found the right reason for my eazy starting 6v 52 8N, and I know how to do it right the first time. Infact I know 8-ways to do it and they all work.

Remember the 6v MANTRA: "keep'em clean, bright, and tight" and don't be fer usin' enny of them thar wimpy ferrin made battery cables. Use 'arry chested 'murricum made one-ought (1/0) thick as yer thumb battery cables.

We electrically challenged hamm-handed shadetree mechanics that can't read instructions would love to learn some of this stuff so we wouldn't haffta ask you to fix our conversions all the time.

Thanks so much,
Willy S.

Thanks,
Willy S.

1) Generally easier to start when it's cold
2) No voltage regulator to tinker with
3) No ballast resistors necessary (W/12V coil)
4) Alternators less troublesome than generators
5) 12V batts generally easier to find than 6V (last time I checked my Wal-Mart had none)
6) 12V lights easier to find
7) generally less trouble with btry/starter connections

If you do this, then I suggest you get a new keyed 20 amp starter switch with an ACC terminal. Hook the excitor terminal (P1) on the alternator directly up to the ACC terminal on the switch. No diode or marker lamp require this way. Also get the right kind of starter solonoid so you can use the regular starter button as Ford intended (safety issue).

Well, #6 lights, you can get brighter lights but I don"t operate at night.

#1... but I don"t run it under 20-degrees anyway. That"s too cold to operate, far as I"m concerned.

I hope Wal-Mart isn"t the only store in your town.

In my case points and condensers were a constant aggravation particularly in wet weather after the tractor sat awhile.

Even though I prefer to keep things original I went ahead and put in a Genessee 12V system with electronic ignition for about the same money as 6V would've cost. Works perfect. I couldn't be more satisfied. Probably going to do the same thing in this #$&%! Volkswagen we're fixing up.

After many years of trouble, I finally bit the bullet and replaced the whole system! As a certified Hater Of Change, it was a hard thing to do, but I'm very happy! (Saved the old stuffs, so it could be put back to original in the future) Also put in the Newfangled Electronic Ignition, which is the best thing since Free Beer! Now, it starts INSTANTLY! (Unless I forget to turn on the fuel, hehehe) I had much troubles with the points, and the tractor kept dying at the most inopportune times! (don't they all??) Again, I don't recommed that everybody do this thing, but it sure makes the tractor more useful! And I saved the old stuffs, so it can get put back original, if somebody in the future decides to make a museum piece outta it! Also put one of them-there "auto-wheel" things on the steering wheel. It keeps the black stuff from getting on my hands!

As Bruce said, the rest of the people convert to use 12 volt attachments.

Good luck,
Dan

As to starting, when it's -45° out, they all need to be plugged in, no matter what the voltage.