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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum

continuing sparkless woes

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Rusty8N

04-11-2005 14:47:32

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Read this board alot...used good advice to get a new rebuild running ..12 V front mount...cut pasture 3 hrs one week (thought I had become an expert 8N mechanic)....two weeks later...overheated...next week started up to see if would overheat...boiled over...next day and since, has not started...no spark...have got some help from you guys during this trouble...just giving background...newest developments/questions: 1) when removed distributor to check points with multimeter, it appeared that a glob of solder had melted somewhere and dripped down into the distributer on the vertical plate holding the points and in the curved housing of the distributor...what the heck could it be??...looks like it came from or dripped past the brass screw at the top...this may be a clue as to what my no spark conditions was caused by??? Also the copper spring on the coil was discolored (grey??) 2) The points multimeter checked out fine opening and closing, but I was not getting the voltage oscillations I expected from voltmeter hooked between top of coil and ground and turning over...so I replaced the coil...now I get the 10 volts...zero volts oscillations with some bouncing around...but NO SPARKS...I think it is something about the way the coil sits on top of the distributor/rotor housing such that either the copper spring (I did stretch) or the silver C-shaped thing is not making the right contact....how are coils supposed to fit in position?? there seems to be no positive position...it kinda sits there...hard to get it straight, hard to get the gasket even, hard to get it held down tight enough to keep it from wobbling a bit...sorry so long...what am I doing wrong??? Don't worry about over heating...will fix that later!! Thanks!! Rusty

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Rob

04-11-2005 16:10:21

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Re: continuing sparkless woes in reply to Rusty8N, 04-11-2005 14:47:32

Hey Rusty. When I see a coil sit crocked I look at the bail. Someone will pull the end of the bail out of the distributor to remove the coil and never get it back in right. After that that coil won"t seat properly because the far side is tighter than the near side. Look at the far side the way the bail seats in the hole and then see if the near side is seated the same. The hole may be wobbled out. You may have to bend the ends of the bail to get it back right but probably not. Pull both ends out, see what you got, reinstall the bail, and don"t let anyone pull one end out of the distributor.
Was your radiator plugged with grass and weed seeds?

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Rusty8N

04-12-2005 04:45:01

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Re: continuing sparkless woes in reply to Rob, 04-11-2005 16:10:21

Rob, thanks...there was a lot of seeds and junk...I cleaned them out...but I have not got it started again to know if this, and lowering the level of antifreeze/water in the radiator would fix the problem. Oh well, they are pretty to look at. R

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souNdguy

04-12-2005 07:23:27

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Re: continuing sparkless woes in reply to Rusty8N, 04-12-2005 04:45:01

Remember you only need enough water to cover the core int he radiator.. all the excess will be spewed out when it warms up.

next.. you have a 12v conversion.. what type of coil are you using? stock 6v? do you have the ballast and dropping resistor inline?

Or if using a tisco 12v coil.. you will need a 1/2 ohm resistor inline. If the spring ont he old coil discolored.. then it got hot.. either bad connection or too much current. Good bet the solder glob came from right there.. the solder around the pig tail spring on the old coil. A quick look at my extra front mount coils shows lots of 'extra' solder in that location.

Soundguy

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Rusty8N

04-12-2005 11:27:46

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Re: continuing sparkless woes in reply to souNdguy, 04-12-2005 07:23:27

12 volt coil with only Dell's radioshack resistors...I am pretty sure I have this configured right...10 volts at the top of the coil (correct?)....what I did not say that could explain getting the coil hot is that after one session of trying it, I left the ignition on (for a week!)...even though the battery was not run down, I got a new coil ready to switich in...I heard on here that that will cook the coil...but I never heard about it melting solder, only "tars"...anyhoo...assuming then that I did need a new coil, now I'm thinking that my points are working, but no voltage is getting delivered out to the rotor...is that possible...??? I am real uncertain how that part of the whole thing works.

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souNdguy

04-12-2005 12:16:48

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Re: continuing sparkless woes in reply to Rusty8N, 04-12-2005 11:27:46

A couple things to think about. 1, the battery will only drain ( and coil heat up, and points burn/fuse/melt ) if the points are closed. if you lucked up and the engine shut off with the points open.. no harm done. ont he other hand.. if it was with the points closed.. the coil may have even opened internally in the primary winding.. perhaps even melting solder..e tc.

If I left the key on.. I'd deffinately look the points over.. the plastic rubbing block might have melted, and occasionally the contacts themselves burn.

Bottom line.. check continuity of the primary winding.. ( measure top post to bottom spring.. then check continuity from top post to flat tab ( secondary). primary will be low ohms.. a few or less. Secondary will be a few thousand.. 4k to 7k perhaps..

If you get close to those numbers.. reinstall it.. power the ignition.. and you should get those voltage fluctuations when the points open and close.. if not.. either the coil is not making contact.. or the points aren't opening and closing.. or something is shorted / open, depending on what you read on the meter..
post back

Soundguy

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Rusty8N

04-12-2005 13:45:49

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Re: continuing sparkless woes in reply to souNdguy, 04-12-2005 12:16:48

Sounder, can I get the correct voltage fluctuaions while turning it over with the starter....while still having a situation that prevents a spark out to the rotor??? I'm 98% sure I put the rotor back in...but I have started to have a little doubt..maybe even a hope...would that explain what I see?...actually...that's a good question, if you don't mind....could you get the voltage deflections (top of coil to ground, turning starter) if the rotor was not in there?? Thanks, R.

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Dell (WA)

04-12-2005 14:56:45

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Re: continuing sparkless woes in reply to Rusty8N, 04-12-2005 13:45:49

Rusty..... ...yes, you will gitt fluctuations wheather or not the rotor is installed. Fluctuations are due to points opening and closeing. (open = battery volts) closed = 10v due to 1/2 ohm current limiting resistor acting as a voltage divider..... ...Dell

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