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Reid..... ....sometimes shorthand electronic speak bummfooozells the electrically challenged. 1) unless otherwize specified ALL voltage reading are with respect to ground. Ground is, are you ready for this? the common electrial conductor for the circuits under test. In this case, it is the METAL TRACTOR itself. Ground can be eather negative or POSITIVE as that is set by the way the BATTERY is connected. Your 2N came from the factory, POSITIVE GROUND. That means the 6v battery's (+) post is connected by that big flat woven braid to, are you ready for this? the TRACTOR CHASSIS. Simple, eh? So the answer to your question for POSITIVE GROUND, connect the voltmeter positive (+) red testlead to TRACTOR GROUND. (assuming your 2N is still positive ground like it came from the factory) tip: look at the top of the battery, the two battery posts are labled (+) and (-) and probe all your voltage tests with the voltmeter NEGATIVE (-) black testlead to the wire under measurement. Simple, eh? 2) the 2-terminal roundcan cutt-outt relay, is a tricky electrical device that is voltage polarity sensitive and DISCONNECTS the genny from the battery when the engine stops running so the genny guttz don't suck yer battery dead overnite. The cutt-outt relay other trick is to connect the genny to the battery when the engine is runnin' and the genny is outtputtin enuff volts to charge yer battery. Simple, eh? You MUST POLARIZE the cutt-outt relay to the battery POLARITY for it to work correctly. I take a pair of pliers handles and "arc-spark' the 2-terminal of the roundcan cutt-outt relay. Simple, eh? 3) What do you think the 3rd brush charge rate screw does? It controls the genny charge back into the battery so you don't overcharge and boil the battery acid dry and warp the battery cell plates and kill yer battery. Simple, eh? In the days of before the "die-hard", batterys did. And it was the JOB of the tractor driver to control the genny output charge by watching the readings on the ammeter and adjusting the charge rate with the 3rd brush. Simple, eh. Its all explained in your owners manual. During normal operations you want to see about +2amps charge on yer ammeter. Iff'n you have headlights ON, you haffta bump-up yer 3rd brush so it still charges at 2amps, and when you turn your headlighs OFF, you haffta turn yer 3rd brush down so it still charges at 2amps. Simple, eh? Modern squarecan voltage regulators do that for you automagically. 4) There is NO SIMPLE TEST for ammeter accuracy. The OEM "loop" style or the 2-terminal replacement ammeter ($10, cheap) are really rather bullett-proof and repair/calibration is by replacement. Simple, eh? ..... .....respectfully, Dell, 40yrs Electronics Engineer
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