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Finish Mower driveshaft question

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Pooh Bear

04-14-2005 18:06:03

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I picked up a used finish mower today.
Big Bee brand, 60 inches, $250.
Looks all rusty, but in good shape otherwise.
It does need a wheel fork on one corner.
One of the wheel forks is bent and the wheel won't pivot completely with out hitting the deck.
Otherwise sounds great. Gonna sharpen the blades tomorrow and see about painting it.

I put it on the tractor and made several passes around the field.
It mowed great. Even with those terribly dull blades.
But the PTO driveshaft came off. Twice.
After the second time I gave up for the day.

How can get it to stay on the PTO.
Is there something I should fix or should I buy a new yoke.
How much would a new yoke cost me.

I probably also need a new ORC. Mine wobbles a bit.
The inside splines are worn quite a bit.
1 1/8 PTO Shaft then ORC converts to 1 3/8.
1949 8N early model.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Pooh Bear

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souNdguy

04-14-2005 21:09:01

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Re: Finish Mower driveshaft question in reply to Pooh Bear, 04-14-2005 18:06:03

I agree with Bob.. sounds like you are not attaching the pto yoke to the orc stub correctly.. should be a thumb button, slid or twist collar to allow it to snap on and then not come off.. etc.

Soundguy

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Bob

04-14-2005 19:06:37

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Re: Finish Mower driveshaft question in reply to Pooh Bear, 04-14-2005 18:06:03

Depending upon the age and maker of the PTO yoke, it will have a spring-loaded pin, a setscrew, or a spring-loaded collar that retains several bearing balls to grip the groove around the ORC splines.

What, if anything, are you releasing to install the PTO yoke over the ORC splines? Goes it grip at least somewhat, when installed over the splines, or can it easily be pulled off by hand?

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Pooh Bear

04-14-2005 22:02:48

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Re: Finish Mower driveshaft question in reply to Bob, 04-14-2005 19:06:37

It has a spring loaded push button on it to release when installing/removing.
I had to use channel-lock pliers to push the button in.
Had to use a hammer and drift punch to get the button back out.
So maybe the guts of it are froze up.

I looked up one of those in the TSC catalog.
Looked like about $30-$50 depending on which one.

Should I just soak this thing in oil and see what happens,
or what?

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

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Bob

04-14-2005 23:52:12

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Re: Finish Mower driveshaft question in reply to Pooh Bear, 04-14-2005 22:02:48

Get the pin freed up, and then do a visual inspection, looking inside the splines, to see if the shoulder on the pin is moving into place, to block off the ORC spline from sliding out of the PTO yoke.

It must be either sticking, damaged, or perhaps someone has replaced a missing lock pin with the wrong one. They do get lost and replaced, and vary between manufacturers, so having the wrong pin is a possibility.

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Tom in MS

04-14-2005 18:34:09

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Re: Finish Mower driveshaft question in reply to Pooh Bear, 04-14-2005 18:06:03

Can"t answer your other questions BUT I have a Big Bee 60" and it does a good job. You probably already know that the bolts that hold the blades on are left hand thread bolts and they will be very tight..In fact I bursted a 3/4" impact socket earlier this week when removing my blades to sharpen them..... .....

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Dave in Kansas

04-15-2005 04:20:21

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Re: Finish Mower driveshaft question in reply to Tom in MS, 04-14-2005 18:34:09

Tom,
I have the same problem. Bolts holding the blades are really cruddy. Not sure how to go about getting them off. Will air wrench eventually get them off after using penetrating oil?

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BillM (OH)

04-15-2005 20:20:45

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Re: Finish Mower driveshaft question in reply to Dave in Kansas, 04-15-2005 04:20:21

Dave: Lift'er up, block'er up, put your monogoggles on, get your angle grinder and sharpen'em on the machine. I have always done both hog and finish mower sharpening on the machine. By the time you get the bolts off, I'll be done.

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Tom in MS

04-15-2005 05:15:25

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Re: Finish Mower driveshaft question in reply to Dave in Kansas, 04-15-2005 04:20:21

I have actually failed with a regular impact wrench before so I decided to try my 12Volt impact made for changing tires and it worked where the other one had failed..It actually builds up speed then engages, so it is more of a solid impact each time it hits...This is what I use every time now and always get them aloose. When I re-install them I always coat the threads with oil. Next time they are off I plan to switch to never seize.....

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