Switch won't shut 'er down

Heres the deal, do it like God and General Motors intended. Use an IDIOT-LITE between P-1 and ignition switch ON termial.

The typical Delco 10-SI alterator is used because it has this built-in voltage regulator ...but... it needs to kickstarted by a switched ON volts from the ignition switch. Same ON terminal of your ignition switch workes ...except... when you go to turn OFF yer engine, the alternator guttz pump power BACK OUT the P-1 terminal to the ignition coil terminal of the ignition switch and prevents you from turning OFF yer engine. Even iff'n the switch is OFF.

So most people use a trailer clearance lamp 'cuz it has built-in wires and use the clearance lamp as an IDIOT-LITE. You don't really have to mount the lite so you can see it. Simple, eh?..... ....respectfully, Dell a 12v advocate for the right reasons

That said, I haven't found the right reason for my eazy starting 6v 8N, and I know how to do it right the first time. Infact I know 8-ways to do it and they all work because I know how and why.

Under certain circumstances, (a poor connection or "open circuit" in the circuit from the alternator output to the battery), the alternator will attempt to charge the battery through the diode trio and internal voltage regulator and "kill" one or both of them.

GM designed the alternator for use with an "idiot light" and/or resistance in the lead to the #1 terminal, so it's best to keep it that way, or at least use a diode, either of which prevents engine "run-on" AND the potential for internal alternator damage.