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Dont jump to too many conclusions Bob. My problem isnt with the NNNNN NN. Like my post said, solutions like removing the petcock or oil cannister, to bolting up the starter before removing, to taking it completely apart and still not being able to remove the darn thing. Removing;
Remove all wiring, duh.
Remove the two mounting bolts. Here the front plate (bolt up) and the back plate (brush holder and arbor bearing), can come apart. Hold it together carefully and fight to put a nut on one of the mounting bolts to hold it together,
OR
just let it fall apart (re-assembly is easy, read rest of this post). Slide the starter shell off, leaving the arbor hanging loosely from the mounting hole.
Now consider you have an 8N. 50+ years... the starter has probably been off before. If not, keeping the starter assembled is not an option. Remove the shell.
If so, the hole has most likely been reemed out from about 12 o'clock to 3 o'clock, approx 3/8" at its highest around 1:30. If not, reem it. Its hard to do with the arbor hanging there but work that needs to be done. Make it a project, an hour or so at a time will limit the frustration and prevent that desasterous "hurry" syndrome. Begin filing or grinding the hole (now you know what dremels are for), gradually from 12 o'clock moving down to the right. At 1:30 youre half way there. A nice smooth circle shape gradually getting deeper from 12 to 1:30, 1:30 being about 3/8" deep, then gradually shallower until exiting at 3 o'clock. Removing petcock and oil cannister leads those asking to think of pushing the starter in toward the motor while trying to pull it out, WRONG.
Rather lift the starter at an angle up toward the 1:30 area of the ground part of the hole, and pull. End of the bendix will hit. Go back toward motor a little, bendix will free, lift back up to 1:30, bendix washer will hit, toward motor a little until free, then back up to 1:30 and out.
When lifting the starter to the 1:30 angle, lift the starter sort of level, a little higher at the back end but basically level and slide arbor against side of hole while pulling outward.
Re-assemble same way, better if you take the time to find a normal starter. Orginal, BAD design, but light years ahead of the crank that preceeded it. Take the time and find a front bendix starter.
Once out, take starter to rebuilder, along with the selenoid and let them do it right,
But
if you want to put it back together yourself, its not a big deal. On the back plate are mounted rectangle brackets. These hold the brushes. Brushes are really a solid brassy rectangular cube with two twisted strand wires attached. Two of the brushes' wires are insulated and attached to the electros inside the shell. The other two are not insulated and connected to the shell directly, ground. Using index finger of right hand, push brush up through bracket until you feel it beyond flush with bottom of bracket. There is a clock wound spring pushing down on the brush, using needle nose pliers in left hand, push spring to the front corner of the bracket. This will hold the brush against the back plate and keep it from falling back through. Do all 4.
Put two insulation rings (washers, paperette) on arbor. They are the ones you wondered what they were when they fell out while dis-assembling. Slide arbor in until stop. It will hit the connecter inside connecting the electros. Make sure insulator rings are still on arbor and align back plate bearing with arbor. Hold back plate about 1/2" open.
Use small screw driver and push one brush back through bracket onto arbor. Use flashlight here and look and see brush sitting on arbor. Now you can see you do have a little more than 1/2" to play with. just dont let the brush fall off arbor. Grip a tiny Allen Wrench in pliers, hold very tight and reach in and pop spring back into place in center of brush. A spring hook puller is best, Autozone, SMALL. Use the screw driver to manipulate the wires out of the way. Do all 4, being careful not to open the back plate more than 1/2" so the brushes do not fall off arbor. If they do start over.
It is not hard as people make it sound, whole re-assembly about 15 - 30 minutes, not counting start overs. It wont try to fly apart, just dont knock it around. Best on table so you can roll starter from one brush to the next but not hard to assemble after putting bendix back on tractor. Practice once on table, then do it on the tractor, you can figure it out.
Back and front plates have small alignment notches at 12 o'clock. Align, thread bolt, done. My frustration. A great site, people ask how to remove or assemble a starter, answer the question. Help each other. This shouldnt be an ego board, yahoo has plenty for that!
NEXT!
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