Static timing does not affect the INTENSITY of the spark, only WHEN the spark occurs in relation to crankshaft position, and therefore, piston postion. If you have a weak or intermittant spark, you have "issues" (I LOVE that word) other than static timing. Timing is VERY IMPORTANT for engine power/efficiency/cooling, but won't make the spark "cut out". How are you checking the spark to know it is "irregular" when "wound up"? Are you removing one spark plug wire, connecting it to a grounded "test spark plug", and then starting the engine, letting it run on 3 cylinders, while you watch the spark from the wire intended for the 4TH cylinder? If the spark is truly intermittant, the first suspect would be bad breaker points... burned contacts, sticky where they pivot, or a weak spring. Worn distributor bushings that allow the shaft to move around will cause intermittant spark, too. Check for wear and looseness in the shaft/bushing area. There should be literally no noticeable play, but yet, the shaft should turn freely, with no binding. If the shaft/bushings are in good condition, my advice would be to install a QUALITY set of points (Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-6769X, or equivalent). Along with getting to the bottom of the intermittant spark problem, you then need to get any centrifugal advance problems fixed. I don't recall if this is an original 6 Volt system, or if you're converted to 12 Volts, but having a good ignition switch, tight and clean connections, and the correct resistor for the setup you have are important, to, for a HOT, steady spark.
|