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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Done with the 2N carb and...

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6N's Short

05-25-2005 17:29:53




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this just isn't fair. Friggin thing won't even turn over so I can't listen to my sweet sounding idle. I have had the battery load tested and it is fully charged and not defective. I have cleaned the battery terminals at the battery and at the tractor. I have a couple of questions. In the schematic someone sent me (Jeb?) it looks like the battery goes to the starter switch and thence straight to the starter. If so, what's the key for? I'm no electronics genius but it looks like the thing will turn over without the key on. Might not run, but should turn over?
Second, is there a way to test the starter switch to see if it is gone south on me? Seems like the switch is the next thing in line to check.

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Paul K in IL

05-25-2005 18:24:48




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 Re: Done with the 2N carb and... in reply to 6N's Short, 05-25-2005 17:29:53  
6N Short,

Yes, that is how they work. All the key switch does is apply power to the coil so you will get spark to the plugs. Tractor should turn over with the key turned off. The later 9Ns and all the 2Ns had a mechanical safety that would prevent the starter switch from closing if the transmission was not in neutral.

To test this just measure the voltage on the battery side of the switch. Should be -6 volts if standard positive ground system. The starter side of the switch should show 0 volts. I would them remove the cable from the starter and while holding the voltmeter to the starter side of the starter switch have someone push the starter switch. If you get -6 volts on the starter side of the switch when you push the button chances are the starter switch is good. if you don't get anything when starter button is pushed either it is bad or the safety is keeping it from working. Take te two bolts out that hold the starter switch to the steering gear case and push the switch again and check the voltage at the starter side of the switch. If you still have nothing then the starter switch is bad. If the starter switch is bad you have the same problem that I have had. Finding a new switch. The proper switch is 9N-11450-B which I have not been able to find. I ended up getting a 9N-11450-A and brazing it to a plate with the correct bolt pattern. I think you could also mount it by just putting bigger washers on the bolts that hold it on.

Let us know how you come out.

Paul K.

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Jeb2N

05-26-2005 03:42:21




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 Re: Done with the 2N carb and... in reply to Paul K in IL, 05-25-2005 18:24:48  
I agree with Paul K that it is most likely the switch on the back of the steering column. That switch IS being reproduced because I got an identical replacement for my '47 2N from the Barkleys. BE ADVISED, though, that there have been a bad batch of these starter switches going around and I actually had to turn around and exchange my brand new one because it went defective. My advice/solution was to pull the switch out and hard wire it to a battery with a test light in-line and push the button manually with my thumb to see if the bulb would light up. Another issue you may run across is that switch uses the gaskets as spacers. If you don't have the right gasket thickness in there, it'll try to start as soon as you connect the battery cable and won't ever shut off! Ask me how I know! hahaha, have heart and don't let this thing whoop you. I nearly lost it over my no-start situation and it just ended up being a couple really simple things working together for a no-start.

Jeb

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Russ SoCal

05-25-2005 23:03:03




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 Re: Done with the 2N carb and... in reply to Paul K in IL, 05-25-2005 18:24:48  
Paul & 6'er.
Fourth item up from the bottom. Also, Trusty Tractor lists it, but I won't deal with them. Ordered something they were out of and it took them a week to tell me I wasn't gonna get it.
Russ



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Paul K in IL

05-26-2005 01:06:43




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 Re: Done with the 2N carb and... in reply to Russ SoCal, 05-25-2005 23:03:03  
Thanks a bunch Russ. I really appreciate the response. I will order one right away.

Paul K.



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