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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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New Alternator?

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ajones

06-06-2005 22:19:29




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I took mine in ,a 12v, and it check ok, so I bought a new converter for 11.00. I put it on and the amp meter hardly moved, just a tad towards neg. So then thought that the wiring was bad and replaced a few that looked like they needed it. Still no change, then I swaped the wires on the alt. and there was a big change....i blew up the volt reg and melted some wires.(lesson learned)
I've been now riding the tractor off the battery. NAPA has an alt. that only requiers a positive and neg. It will fit the 9n and eliminate the need for the voltage reg. (cutting out 2 wires off th alt and four on the reg) Its about 65.00.

What are you opinions??? go the new alt route or get a new volt reg. and continue to deal with the problem until I figure it out?

art

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Jim Cox

06-07-2005 10:40:42




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 Re: New Alternator? in reply to ajones, 06-06-2005 22:19:29  
I'm not a fan of One wire alts, unless it has been designed for AG use. Go to a Case dealer and get a 103799A1R. Maybe $20 more, but a real AG quality alternator. It CAN be one-wired, or you can hook it up right with the link Bob gave you. The NAPA alt will work great on your 77 chevy pickup, that's where it belongs.

I know 8Ns aren't really the choice tractor on today's family farm or whatever, but why make it less effective with less effective parts. Besides, there are still a few thousand 6V tractors that run forever.

Bob, sorry I got your name wrong in yesterday's post. I hate laptop screens

Jim Cox
Former Alternator guy

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Bob

06-06-2005 23:47:40




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 Re: New Alternator? in reply to ajones, 06-06-2005 22:19:29  
What do you have now, an alternator with an EXTERNAL regulator, or a 12 Volt GENERATOR?

What "converter" did you replace?

I would recommend a Delco 10 SI or 12 SI alternator with the standard, original 3- wire hookup. A good diagram to do this is on the "My Old Fords" site linked below. Wheter you have a 9N, a 2N, an early 8N, or a late 8N, there's a diagram there that will work for you.

This conversion is cheap and easy to do, uses a standard, off-the-shelf alternator with standard internal parts (rather than the various varieties of aftermarket internal parts a "one-wire" alternator may be equipped with).

Using a standard 3- wire alternator will guarantee it beginning to charge at low engine speeds (which not all 1- wire alternators are good at), and will cause less confusion and expense, down the road, if alternator repairs are ever needed.

The "marker light" specified in the conversion information acts as the charge indicator "idiot light" AND limits current "backfeed" into the ignition circuit from the alternator's #1 terminal. This prevents the engine from continuing to run when the ignition switch is shut "off", and prevents possible internal alternator damge.

Alternately, a 3- Amp, 1000 PIV diode works in the place of the lamp, if a lamp is not desired.

For pros and cons of 1- wire and 3-wire alternators, see also THIS site:

Link

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