Distributor problem after 12V conversion on '52 8N

Using a Genesse kit (trying to save time -- I use this tractor), I converted to 12V neg ground w/alternator and Pertronix electronic module. Here's the problem:

I get fire from the coil, through the primary wire, but nothing is coming out of the distributor when I crank the engine. I've replaced the dist. cap & rotor button to no avail.

When I loosen the distributor hold down and turn it by hand, I get a healthy spark through the plug wires. Also, I sometimes get a spark after I release the starter button and momentum spins the engine spins just a bit more.

It's as if the depressed starter button is somehow preventing the spark from exiting the distributor cap. But this makes no sense at all.

Anyone ever see anything like this?

Also DO NOT USE modern anti-radiostatic carbon core sparkie wires. The carbon core is like "glass" and can crack/break. Yer sparkies will sometimes jump the gap and sometimes NOT. Use ONLY COPPER core sparkie wires. New coppercore sparkie wires. $15 (cheap) cut to fit and solder the metal end clippies. Clean the resin flux with alcohol.

When I replaced my old hard cracked sparkie wires, I bought a hot-rod coppercore PONTIAC V-8 set for the elbow boots to fit on topppa my sparkies under the gastank. Still soft and flexable 15yrs later and eazy starting 6-volter..... ....Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

From the sound of what you're telling us, it indicates 1. a low voltage to the ignition, while cranking (as previously suggested), which might be caused by the old ballast resister still in the circuit, dirty or loose connections, bad wire to terminal connection, bad grounding connection, etc.

2. It's wired wrong (starter button is grounding out the voltage that should be going to the ignition system?).

In any case, please let us know what you find, so we can all get better at the 'I think it is" game. HTH

Ramrod

1. Does it fire from the coil wire when you crank it? If it does, problem in distributor cap/rotor, if not low voltage present at coil and distributor module when cranking.

2. Where did you connect the red and black wires from the ignition module?

3. I know you've talked to Andy at Genesee, I recognise his troubleshootong method, but he is the man for this stuff. He helped me troubleshoot my installation months ago, and it is all worth it, you'll never regret doing this.

Ramrod

I'll take that as a compliment, since I hadn't talked to him at that time! I learned some of my electrical troubleshooting techniques from my late uncle, who was an automotive electrician.

HOWEVER, I did just get off the phone with Andy, and he believes that the Pertronix unit is mounted in the wrong holes. Although I have checked everything several times and am confident that I did it correctly, my eyes aren't what they used to be and a mounting problems seems logical, given the symptoms. I'm at work now, so I can't check this until this afternoon. But I will let everyone know what I find.

One thing I can say with the utmost confidence: Genesee is a great company to work with and I remain quite impressed with their customer service.

Richard

Ramrod

Anyway, if the coil is on the opposite side of the motor from the distributor, is the wire from neg side of coil hooked to the outside if the distributor? Is it on this system? Just a thought, hope it helps.

I remember reading about this type of starting problem, but I can't recall the specifics, I'm sure somebody else here will have the exact solution.

It has to do with the starting voltage being reduced by an aging starter button or starter problem. If the engine is still turning a little just as you release the button, there is a sudden increase in voltage as the starter isn't taking up all of the power and the engine suddenly tries to start. The problem is hard to diagnose because the wiring system appears normal when you are checking it out.

Maybe this will some, maybe not.

That could be it. Both the starter button and the starter seem to operate just fine. One thing I haven't done is test the voltage to the coil while the starter is turning. I did run a lead straight from the battery to the coil, though, and it made no difference.

I get fire from the coil to the distributor, but not OUT of the distributor unless I turn it by hand.

If I reattach the primary ignition wire to the distributor and press the starter button, I get no spark out the plug wires while the engine spins.

If I loosen the distributor hold down and turn it a quarter turn so that the Pertronix cam sensor fires a spark, then THAT time it will come through the plug wire.

Also, I'll sometimes see a spark after I have released the starter button and the engine spins another half turn or so from momentum.

Good point about "new doesn't mean flawless." However, I have gone over and over every component, and I don't see any obvious problems.

The coil is mounted on the opposite side of the engine from the distributor. I get fire from the coil, but not coming out of the distributor and through the plug wires -- unless I just rotate it by hand. Everything is new: Pertronix, dist. cap, rotor button, wiring, etc.