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Neighbors 9n

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Phil Sutton

06-16-2005 18:51:29




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Can't seem to search the archives?
My neighbor is helping looking after my cattle that are calving and won't take anything for doing so. Since I live 100 miles away until I retire, he's a good friend to have.

I usually work on his hay equipment in return but had a new hip 4 weeks ago and am pretty limited right now.

He has a 9N that will not start. He uses it to rake with amd general utility work. He had another neighbor that does some mechanical work look at it and he said the timing was good, the carburetor OK. His compression guage didn't have enough room to use (needed an adapter so I don't know if compression is OK although he seemed to think so with the amount of air coming out under compression).
They got it started by pouring gas in ghe cylinder and it runs fine? I've never tried this. I don't think they were able to start it with starting fluid.

His opinion was that the intake valve guides were worn and it wasn't pulling gas into the motor? I hadn't ever heard of this either.
I'll take my compression gauge down this weekend.
Does anybody have any other ideas on what I should look for?
I have two John Deere's and an Oliver 550 that keep me occupied, but I've never worked on a 9N.
Phil

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Bruce (VA)

06-16-2005 19:15:19




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 Re: Neighbors 9n in reply to Phil Sutton, 06-16-2005 18:51:29  
It takes 3 things to make an engine run: fuel, compression & spark at the right time. Take an old spark plug with you; open the gap to 3/16, ground it to the block, and see if you get a bright blue spark. If not, pull the distributor off (that's right, off). Remove the distributor cap, remove the coil wire, then remove the two bolts holding the distributor to the block. Check the condition of the cap, rotor & points; gap is .015. Pull the pig tail on the coil to stretch it out & put the distributor back on the engine; firing order is 1-2-4-3, CCW and is usually marked on the cap. Check fuel by turning the gas on & removeing the bolt at the bottom of the carb; if you get a good steady stream out of the bottom of the carb, your getting fuel in the bowl. If not, remove & clean the screens in the brass elbow going to the carb & the one in the top of the sediment bowl. If you have a compression guage, you probably have an analog voltage meter; take it with you and check for battery voltage at the coil.

All of the above are simple fixes; if you don't get it started (towing it in 3rd gear will usually work better if you have a compression problem) get back on the board & someone will offer more sggestions.

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Tom in MS

06-16-2005 19:09:12




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 Re: Neighbors 9n in reply to Phil Sutton, 06-16-2005 18:51:29  
If it ran after pouring gas in it by hand then you have pretty much isolated your problem to a fuel problem. Check for good gas flow at the carburetor by disconnecting the line where it goes into the carb. With the line disconnected and something under it to catch the spill, turn the gas shutoff valve on. You should have a full flow, not a dribble. If you don"t, then the filter in the shutoff valve is most likely stopped up. If you do have good flow going into the carb. reconnect the gas line and remove the drain plug in the bottom of the carb. and check for flow. Again you should have a good flow. If it is not a good flow, remove the elbow fitting that screws into the side of the carb. and clean the screen/filter located there. Another screen type filter in inside the tank but it seldom stops up..While the gas line is disconnected from the carb, blow(with air tank)air through the line back up through the tank(not high pressure but pressure from a portable air tank) will do the trick. If this don"t solve the problem, the carb will need disassembled and cleaned out.

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ZANE

06-16-2005 19:03:44




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 Re: Neighbors 9n in reply to Phil Sutton, 06-16-2005 18:51:29  
The front mounted distributor is famous for malfunction. The coil don't like to be over voltaged for over a few seconds and even then they may fry. Check the ignition by removing a plug and laying it on the head and turn the engine over. Should be a good bright blue spark.

It should have started on starting fluid if it started on gas poured in the cylinder.

Check the fuel system for a good flow out the bottom of the carburetor drain plug. It has three screens in the fuel system. One in the fuel bowl. One in the fuel tank and one in the elbow that enters the carburetor housing with the fuel line.

If he has pretty good compression on all the cylinders it is not going to be any valve problem. Especially not the valve guides????

Ignition switches are not too good on those old girls either so jump around it if the spark is not there at the plug.

Never by pass the ignition resistor that is in line with the ignition wire. A fried coil will result in short order.

There should be about 3 volts at the coil on the ignition wire with the points closed.

Try pouring a table spoon of oil in each cylinder if all else fails. Sometimes when one has sat for a long time this will give it enough increase in compression to get it to start when otherwise it might not.

Zane

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Phil Sutton

06-17-2005 15:42:43




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 Re: Neighbors 9n in reply to ZANE, 06-16-2005 19:03:44  
Thanks for everybody"s advice. I"m going down tomorrow (Saturday) and pull compression checks on the cylinders and go from there. I"ll also check the gas flow out of the bottom of the carburetor. Another guy I was talking to said he got by awhile with low compression by drilling a hole in the intake hose close to the carburetor and squirting starting fluid in there and going around an cranking the engine. I never heard of this, but if it works, might be a short term fix until haying season is over. Guess you could tape off the hole while running to keep dust out.
Phil

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