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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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NAA Rebuild - Rear Axles/Brakes Now

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ReidS TN-NAA

08-04-2005 19:36:33




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I managed to get tractor jacked up off ground and supported with new 6 ton jackstands. With the help of my more than able bodied wife, finally got the liquid filled tires and rims off. I removed drums and both brakes obviously need shoes replacing - no majord problems observed there. When I was removing the drum on right side - I noticed that one of the bolts outside on the trumpet was broken and the rest very loose -hmm - not good maybe? I found that I have about 1/8" in/out movement on each axle. Should one axle be forced to be stationary to determine end play? The tractor had what seemed to be some severe looseness in the back end and on occasion would wobble it would seem as I would be driving with a load. I think maybe I need to plan on more than brake shoes and go ahead and tear into axle assembly for bearing and seal replacement. I can also hear some clunking in the differential when I turn an axle. Questions are:
Can I break loose axle nuts with both wheels off and tractor jacked up? Big wrench on one side and another big wrench on other side? I know I'll need at least one big wrench. Will I also need to pull trumpet casting and expose differential for hopefully simple bearing/seal replacement. All I wanted was my engine to quit smoking and darned if don't look like a full (semi-full) rebuild/restoration is half way in progress - engine completely overhauled. Any thoughts or advice needed and appreciated.

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Ramrod

08-05-2005 05:15:40




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 Re: NAA Rebuild - Rear Axles/Brakes Now in reply to ReidS TN-NAA, 08-04-2005 19:36:33  
I devised a precedure to break those big nuts loose and retorque them with the rear wheels off on my NAA rebuild. With the rear end on jackstands, my biggest Snap On pry bar was long enough to slip between two lugs and still touch the ground. That lever server to immobilize the axle while I put pressure on the big nut. That pry bar was perfect, but you can maybe figure out another piece of hardware to use if you don't have one of those...

Ramrod

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Steve IA

08-05-2005 03:47:17




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 Re: NAA Rebuild - Rear Axles/Brakes Now in reply to ReidS TN-NAA, 08-04-2005 19:36:33  
You need to break the big nuts loose before jacking up the tractor. To eliminate the need of lifting the tires try this. Loosen the lug nuts and jack the tractor just enough so the lug bolts are centered in the bolt holes on the wheel. Remove the nuts and lean tire slightly towards you to clear the bolts and wiggle/walk the tire away from the hub. Be careful to keep tire as upright as possible. When tire is clear of hub, roll it aside and lean it against a wall (not the tractor). With tire off, jack and place tractor on stands for safety. Reverse process to reinstall. It's easier to move the tractor small amounts than that big heavy filled tire. Jack up and remove the stands. Roll the tire back and wiggle/walk it close to the hub. You will need that good wife on the jack to raise and lower the tractor to line up the bolts with the holes. Be careful here as hydraulic jacks may let down more than you want/expect. Lower 1st and make fine adjustments jacking up. I use a screw bottle jack from an old GMC pickup that allows minute adjustment. You may also have turn the hub to line up the holes. It's easier to turn the hub to line up the bolts and holes than trying to turn the tire a few degrees. With xmission in neutral, I turn the hub with a socket breaker bar stuck between 2 lug bolts. Think and work safely. Steve

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Dan

08-04-2005 19:48:17




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 Re: NAA Rebuild - Rear Axles/Brakes Now in reply to ReidS TN-NAA, 08-04-2005 19:36:33  
Sounds like what I had when I removed my water filled tires and looked inside my drums for the first time. Two brake support studs had the head snapped off. There was some severe force for that to happen. Y

ou probably will not get that axle nut off with the wheels off the ground if it is anywhere close to proper torque - sorry. Plus, you do not want to be jerking on that big wrench with the rear end up on stands.

On the bearing load, I would get new hubs (as they are probably shot now with it being so loose) and probably new axles as well (which means new bearings). Worry about setting your pre-load then with the new stuff on. You want to get it where you have little or no in and out movement, but not too tight. Clunking in the differential when you turn the axle is normal with both wheels off the ground. It is your call if you want to pull the trumpet for the inner bearing and cup replacement - of course the "standard" answer is you should.

Good luck,
Dan

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