Sputtering Question

It does sound like it has a slight miss when it is idling. If I choke it then is smoothes right out. During my first ride on it, I would have to choke it slightly to keep it running smooth and to avoid it from sputtering when I would let the clutch out and when I would start going up an incline. I have not made any adjustments to the carburetor yet. I wanted to wait until the engine has a few more hours on it so that everything is broken in. I did not rebuild the carburetor since it was rebuilt about 4 years ago. I wanted to get some input before I assume that this is just the result of a carburetor needing some adjustments. Does this sound like a carburetor problem, timing problem, sparkie problem…?

Thanks,
Justin

QUESTION? Is the engine you are currently using yer 4yo rebuilt carb on the same engine that it was used and adjusted on 4yrs ago? NO!!! You've since rebuilt that engine and it is NOT the same engine. Adjust yer 4yo carb to the characteristics of yer NEW REBUILT engine. And NO, you don't haffta clean and rebuild yer 4yo carb again.

Iff'n you don't know how to adjust yer M/S tractor carb, Both Ford and M/S say to adjust BOTH the side-pointing idlemix and down-pointing mainjet to 1-turn to start with. I adjust the down-pointing mainjet to 1-1/2 turns and LEAVITT!!!

Then on a warmed up engine, adjust the side-pointing idlemix for maximum rpms, NOT smoothest running, MAX idle rpms. Understand? Then adjust the behind the carb throttle speed screw for a SLOOOooow 400rpms. Anything under 500rpms is probably good. Do that song and dance, 3-times; for max idle rpms.

Remember yer side-pointing idlemix is BASSACKWARDS; out for lean, IN for INRICH. My idlemix usually ends up about 3/8 turn. Remember, each engine is gonnna be slightly different.

Yer slight idle miss and need for handchoke to smooth it out is indicative if LEAN idlemix. I'd adjust the side-pointing idlemix 1/8 turn CW for INRICHMENT. See iff'n that don't improve yer idle sputter complaint..... ...Dell

Or is it 1-1/4-turn? Typo?

Anyway, too rich screws up the lube, cylinder wall especially, allowing a lot of unnecessary wear, and wastes a lot of fuel doing it, while lean runs hot hot hot increasing wear and tear and both take hours and hours and hours off the life of the engine.

Back it out 1/4-turn at a time until the engine picks up without hesitation rolling in high gear when you apply some brake (load the engine) as you give it 1/2-throttle. If it puffs smoke when you do that then turn it in 1/8-turn should clear that puff and leave you within 1/16-turn of exactly right.

Adjust the carb only after the engine warms to operating temp.

But who knows the difference between an engine that goes 4,000 hours between rebuilds and one that goes 5,000 hours? Maybe that could be the difference between a "good enough" main adjustment and a more precise main adjustment.

But then the difference could be the motor oil a guy uses; or other stuff like air cleaner maintenance. But if it is all wrong then the engine will cost more to operate and it will not last near the hours as an engine that has had attention paid to all the small stuff. 200-hours here, 500-hours there, 300-hours because of that, and 15% or 20% less gas mileage then before long you are talking real time and money.

Do it again next week or whenever.