Roger..... ...The reason I can't give you a straight, definative answer is: nobody ever told me. Originally, the 12 volt frontmount ignition coil was supppost to be straight with no resistances needed. Everybody thought that was great. Except the dealers and the coil manufacturer who all of a sudden had beau-coup complaints about lousy burned out coils. mumble-mumble So they started including an instruction sheet giving the correct value of current limiting resistor needed, which unfortunately for you, is not the same value as the infamous "ballast resistor" mounted on the backside of the dash. At one time, the new 12 volt frontmount ignition coils came with somesort of instructions sheet in 8 different languages 'xept 'merican. Nobody ever reads the instructions anyways. I can tell you this, there used to be a tag on the 12 volt frontmount ignition coil that said "13 volts MAX". Believe it. And since good 12 volt alternators will put out about 14.7 volts, guess what is going to happen to your nice new ignition coil?... Its OHMS LAW baby!!! Even more compounding is the fact that most commonally available ohm meters are not very accurate at low ohms, you need $500 lab grade ohm meters. So what to do? Read the voltage at the ignition coil terminal, its more accurate anyways. About 10-11 volts (11.5 max) with the points closed and engine not running. Battery volts with the points open. Bottom line, you need about 0.4 ohm at about 20 watts (burnie-burnie) to keep your new 12 volt coil from burning out. And NO, I can not give you a part number. Diffferent resistor makers will have different part numbers for the same electrical value resistor. And no I can't tell you where to get it or where to mount it, its all too subjective. Except mount it where it CAN NOT melt anything..... ...Dell
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