NAA woes

I remember someone telling me to get rid of the 6v coil and go with a 12v one, will i need to change the distributor if i do this? Can some explain the whole points/condensor to me, it is new to me - not used to working on anything older than an 1988 model. I am also thinking of taking the carb apart and cleaning it as it is very dirty, but should i get a rebuild kit or can i just take it apart and clean it and put it back together.

I"m beginning to think my good deal is not such a good deal as i am having too many problems with this thing so far.

woefully - Ryan N VA

Good luck,
Dan

As for the coil... No.. just swap to a 12v coil.. like a napa IC14sb and get rid of any resistors... distribuitor don't care about voltage... points dontc care about volts ( do care about current ).. Capacitor does care about volts.. but only cares when you get much higher than 12.. more like 200 etc.. ).

Coke to run.. could be vacume leak.. probably not though..

Could be a bad ignition switch.. try jumpering yours.. heck jumper from battery hot to primare input side of coil with an aligator clip wire.

Could be clogged carb jet, stuck float.. plugged fuel line.

Check fuel flow at bowl drain.. that will tell you about line and float... might be missing the filter at the carb elbow and have plugged the carb up.. etc. No rocket science involved in rebuilding a MS carb..

How the ignition works? Power from the battery .. thru the ignition switch.. thru the coil primary..big wire.. low amount of turns.. strong magnetic field, to the points.. when points close as the distribuitor shaft rotates and allows the cam block to close, the points make a connection from the coil primary to ground... magnetic field charges in the coil.. distribuitor shaft still rotating now opens the points.. breaks the circuit.. magnetic field in the coil colapses, and induces a voltage on the secondary winding in the coil, thin wire.. lots of turns.. good for making high voltage... high tension line carries the high KV to the distribuitor cap.. where it is in turn sent to the correct cylinders thru mechanical timing opf the rotor and the distribuitor contacts allowing the spark to jump.. then thru the spark plug wire.. to the plug.. jumping the contact at the end, and to ground.. jumping the contact ignites the compressed fuel air 'charge' mixture...

Capacitor is across the points as a debouncer to help prevent pitting and arcing when the mag field colapses and makes the spark.. etc.

A step up xformer in an ac household product functions on a 'similar' principle.. just doesn't used pulsed ( on / off ) dc to do it.. instead uses alternating current.. etc..

hope this helps some..

Soundguy

Rick

One cylinderical screen up INSIDE yer gastank. It's known to melt and disapear or gitt clogged with big rusty clumps of crud. Inspection and cleaning is ONLY by removing the entire fuel valve underneath yer gastank. Replacing the fuelvalve is ONLY way to replace the missing cylinderical screen.

2nd screen is ONTOP of yer glass fuel bowl. Remove and clean as necessay.

3rd screen is inside the brass elbow of yer carburator. Remove and clean as necessary.

Problem with most other fuelline fuelfilters is they aren't made for NO PRESSURE, gravity feed fuel systems. Those that are, confuse the inexperienced because they don't see any colored fuel being filtered thru the filter. Guess what? Iff'n you start seeing fuel, it means the filter is CLOGGED and needs replacement.

Remember to ALWAYS turn yer fuelvalve OFF so gravity doesn't leak past the carb float valve and fill yer engine cylinders with in-compressable fuel and cause hydraulic lock when you go to start yer engine with catastrosphic $$$ results..... ...Dell

Ramrod