|
Ryan..... ....ya asks allotta valid questions, so here goes..... . 5) hole in castiron exhaust manifold. NOT REPAIRABLE. Exhaust temperature +1200F, will burn enny pucky you try to seal the hole with. While you can weld castiron with nickle rod, you can NOT WELD used castiron exhaust manifolds 'cuz the permeable castiron grain is CONTAMINATED by exhaust gas carbon particles. You can "braze" castiron with brass rod and flux but braze melts at about 1000F. There is also castiron rod + flux but the contaminated manifold won't weld. Bottom line, castiron exhaust manifolds burn out or crack flanges, NEW castiron manifold $150. (not cheap) 6) the torque for the 7" 5/16 starter bolts is 18ft/lbs. the torque for the 5/8" 5/16 oilpan bolts is 18ft/lbs
Would you suspect that the torque for ALL 5/16" bolts are the same? They are, iff'n they are all the same grade. Grade-8 5/16 is 25ft/lbs. Grade-2 is 15ft/lbs. Actually, the fine-thread is slightly higher than the coarse thread, but is relatively immaterial. 1) the choke is spring-loaded WIDE OPEN and is manually closed by long pull-rod for starting cold engine. It is blocked from going fully closed so you don't flood the engine while you try to start it. 2) As fer yer smellin' gasoline out yer exhaustpipe. Learn how to adjust yer carb. Much to the dismay of gov't environmental bureaucrats, ALL carbs must be adjusted to match the engine they're mounted on. Both Ford and Marvel-Schebler say to set BOTH the side-pointing idle-mix and the down-pointing main-mix to 1-turn. I set the down-pointing main-mix to 1-1/2 turn and LEAVIT!!! I then adjust the side-pointing idlemix for maximum rpms, NOT SMOOTHEST running, MAX idle-rpms. Understand? Then adjust the behind the carb throttle screw for a SLOOOoooww 400rpms. (ennythang under 500rpms is good) I do that song and dance 3-times, adjusting for MAX IDLE. Remember the side-pointing idle-mix is BASSACKWARDS: out for lean, IN for ENRICH. My idle-mix usually ends up about 3/8 turn. Yours will be different..... ..... .HTH, Dell
| 
