Yep, a guy can jump a bad starter switch with the screwdriver but that is not about the spark. That would be the starter circuit and not your ignition circuit. You also have a charging circuit. 3 different circuits. Anyway....
If you have the cap off and you key-on bump the starter to open the points you should test voltage across the open breaker points. It should light a light. You should see a spark when you bump the engine and the points go to open.
Back up and make sure you are headed in the right direction. Following is the procedure to isolate the distributor/coil as the problem. Should be quick and easy for you so just do it. Start with pulling a plug wire. When you confirm the dist/coil is the problem then pull it off the engine; two bolts. Put it on the bench and take a long hard look at each part of it. If there is a problem you can see it. Just have to recognize it so be very critical. Only thing you cannot see to know if it is good and whole is the condensor guts. Here"s the book on troubleshooting that ignition.
Assuming the starter cranks the engine:
No spark at any plug wire. Take primary wire off the coil, turn on the ignition and watch for a spark when primary wire is brushed against a ground. Strong spark (1/4"+ diameter spark) here says there is a problem in the coil/distributor.
No spark says problem is between the battery terminal on the starter relay and primary wire on the coil. If you get no spark when you ground the terminal block upper terminal then the problem is the connection between the terminal and the starter motor relay. Turn on the ignition switch and ground the lower terminal on the terminal block. If no spark then the ignition switch or switch wires are bad. If it does spark then the problem is the connection between that terminal and the primary connection on the coil.
Intermittent spark at all plug wires. You have to key-on crank or run the engine and watch to see if you get 8 or 10 regular, consistent, hot-blue sparks in a row. If you have a problem with each plug, that’s probably the primary circuit. Check, clean and tighten these terminals: battery, starter relay, all terminals on the terminal block, and the primary lead on the coil. Check spark out of the coil lead, bend and replace it lead shows surface cracks or any damage. Replace or gap the points as needed. Thoroughly clean the distributor, rotor and cap. Inspect the rotor and cap and replace if damaged, cracked or tracked. Make sure the points breaker arm is not binding. Make sure the points mounting screws are tight and the threads are not worn. Replace the condenser and check again. If the trouble has not been corrected then replace the coil and check again.
Good spark at some plug wires, but not all. Hold the bad wire 3/16” off a ground while you run the engine at around 500rpm. It’s weak if it doesn’t regularly jump the gap 8 or 10 times in a row. If it’s weak then bend the plug wire and if it shows surface cracks then replace with copper plug wire. Replace a wire that has any damaged insulation. Solder the plug wire connections is best practice. Make sure the plug wire connections are clean and firmly seated in the socket. Still have a problem then remove the distributor cap and wash it in warm, soapy water and then inspect it for cracks or carbon tracks. Replace a cracked or tracked cap. You might have to check the points gap at each lobe of the distributor cam. If each one is not in spec then you have wear on the lobe, bushing or shaft. There should be no side-to-side slop in the shaft in any direction.
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