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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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Wiring question re conversion

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Paul in MD

09-19-2005 16:00:16




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My wife says it's just old age, but I think I'm just dim-witted. I've read a everything on the archives I can find aout the wiring of the marker lights for a 12 v conversion, but the variuos diagrams have me confused (the ones that came with the kit are awful and do not take into account the famous marker light addition). Here's my question(s): (1) One wire from the ignition switch goes to the new resistor on one connector (a wire from the original resistor goes to the other connector on the new resistor. It looks like the other wire from the ignition switch goes to a lug on the original resistor, but I can't tell which one. It looks like maybe the third stud at the bottom. (2) According to the 12 v conversion wiring diagram that has been posted on this Board many times, the side marker appears to connect to a stud on the resistor terminal block where the starter switch and coil also go. that doesn't agree with how I'm reading the diagram that came with the kit. Bottom line is it would be helpful if someone could explain which wires go to which connections on the two risistors. Sorry for the long posting and the request for what will probably be a long answer. By the way, it's a 49 8n and I am also replacing the ammeter with a voltmeter to further complicate my job. Thanks.

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Dell (WA)

09-19-2005 16:42:58




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 Re: Wiring question re conversion in reply to Paul in MD, 09-19-2005 16:00:16  
Paul..... ....you read but you don't understand. thats ok 'cuz at least yer asking the same questions many electrically challenged ask.

The common and popular Delco 10SI 3-wire 12-volt alternator has a slip-on spade terminal P1 (l/h) that is called "switched excite". That means the internal solidstate voltage regulator needs someone to "turn-on" the internal electrics. Wannna guess where that turn-on voltage comes from?

But unfortunately, due to the design of the internal solidstate guttz, once the electrics are turned on, it now OUTPUTS VOLTS. Thats ok as long as yer ignition switch is ON trying to INPUT VOLTS and they balance out. Wannna guess what happens when you TURN OFF yer ignition switch to stop yer engine? Wannna guess WHY yer engine don't STOP?

All is not lost, the commonly used trailer marker light, used as an "idiot-lite" like God and General Motors intended comes to your "rescue" and slows down the back-volts coming outta the alternator P1 terminal and now you have very weak sparkies and yer engine quits. Isn't that amazing?

The trailer marker light is used as an idiot-lite 'cuz it comes with 2-wires already attached for eazy installation between the ignition switch ON terminal and the alternators P1 terminal. Simple, eh?

As fer yer confussion at the 3-terminal power distribution block under yer ampmeter, the bottom terminal is the battery power SOURCE and supplies the 2-wire ignition switch power IN. The other ignition switch wire is POWER ON and goes to BOTH the "infamous ballast resistor" and the alternators P1 excite terminal thru the IDIOT-LITE.

The output of the "infamous ballast resistor" should go thru a 12-to-6volt converting resistor (HOT! burnie-burnie) to the ignition coil terminal. Simple, eh?

Also, the common Delco 10SI alternator has a 2nd slide-on terminal called (what else) P2 (remote volts sense). Its function is to read the battery volts and control the alternators charging output. In tractor conversions, P2 (remote volts sense) is connected by a short wire to the alternators BIG STUD output. The alternators output is wired to a convient BATTERY terminal. Usually the battery cable starter studd. Simple, eh? ..... ...respectfully, Dell a 12 volt advocate for the right reasons

That said, I haven't found the right reasons for my eazy starting 6-volt 8N and I know how to do it right the first time. Infact I know 8-ways to do it and they all work.

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Paul in MD

09-19-2005 17:38:44




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 Re: Wiring question re conversion in reply to Dell (WA), 09-19-2005 16:42:58  
Thanks Dell. Had one wire wrong and when I fixed that it started right up. The light went on with the switch and then turned off as soon as the engine started. Just like it's supposed to. Coulda knocked me over with a feather. Now I'm going to wire up the new lights, the voltmeter, put in new sparkies, and I'll be ready for winter. Thanks, again. Paul



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