Questions on 2N, Help appreciated!!!

Mike

I got some plans from this site for limiter chains and had a welder friend of mine make them. What a difference! set the chains and leave the lift lever down and don't look back.

Be careful these old tractors become addictive, I lost spark the other day and have not done any preperation for winter. (Still trying to figure how to get the N running again.) My wife thinks I am nuts.

As usual, everything I get into turns addictive, and expensive!!

Mike

As others have said, you only have draft control on a 2N. The 8N had both draft control and position control. You generally want position control on things like grading and mowing so limiter chains become a decent alternative solution.

Word is that if your lift will stay up for 20 minutes with the engine turned off and a decent load on it, then you have "braggin' rights". I just rebuilt my lift from the ground up and it will hold up a cordwood saw with only about 4" drop over a weekend or longer. An easy fix to fast leakdown is the later style NAA piston with a rubber o-ring instead of steel piston rings. It seals better and thus stays up longer.

Brakes are typically poor on the N's. While they were meant for turning assistance, if you are trying to go straight and you hit the brake without pushing the clutch in, you are basically trying to stop the motor. Mash the clutch in and hit the brake at the same time.

I'll let you in on a little secret. On the 9N and 2N, if you look on the Left brake cross shaft, just under the clutch is a little cast iron bent-finger that I like to refer to as "the widget". They put that little guy on there so that you only push the clutch pedal down 1/2 way to disengage the clutch. At the 1/2 way point, the clutch is out and the clutch pedal is now just hitting the top of the widget. If you continue to push the clutch pedal down, the widget begins to turn the left brake shaft just as if you were hitting the left brake pedal. Pretty slick, huh?! As for trying to kill the engine, is the brake sticking? see if hooking your toe underneath the pedal and pulling up helps things at all.

AS always, feel free to email me if you have more questions. Good luck to ya!

Jeb

Rick

That is also why the position is never the same on the lift.

Common way around this is to get check chains.. lift mower for transport.. set chains.. relaxe lift. Then re-set for mow height... mower always drops to the same point after yuo lift it, due to the chains limiting travel depth.

The leakdown is most likely a worn leaky hyds lift cyl / piston. Pull the round dipstick cover and look in with lift up under load.. if oil is running from the mouth of the cyl.. the top cover needs rebuilding.

Occasionally there is a leak at the top or bottom cover gasket, or the standpipe, or from the relief valve in the pump.. mostly it is the lift cover though.

Lift cover R&R is pretty easy and straight forward. Get a I&T fo4 manual.

Mostly it is disconnecting control valve, pulling top cover.. hone or replace lift cyl, replace old 3 ring piston with a new naa piston and oring and washer.

All gaskets, and a new piston and new relief valve come to less than 100$ add another 80-90$ if the cylinder is too hosed to use.

Figure 4-5 hours start to finish to R&R the top cover, usi9ng basic hand tools.. wrench, razor blades.. cleaners.. etc.

Slap in a new cam pin while the cover is off.

Soundguy

Congratulations on the 2N. Chances are, your cam-follower pin is worn inside the lift cover causing the short range of operation.

The lift cover will have to be removed from the tractor to repair this.

If the lift quadrant has the 4 cap screws holding it in place, you might be able to loosen the screws and shift the quadrant forward or rearward and gain some adjustment. However, I am not as familiar with the 9N/2N lift as I am the 8N. HTH. Rick