Got tractor going, here's what I've found...

I changed the hydraulic fluid and got the lift to go up finally, but it won't come back down now...I checked the intake control valve and exhaust control valve and they both move in and out in relation to the lever position. Not sure what to do from here?

Oil pressure at startup reads 45-50 lbs but gradually drops off as the engine heats up down to around 25-30 lbs. Sometimes maybe a bit lower. I think this is okay?

I have some smoke coming from the oil filler/breather cap...not a lot but some...I assume this means rings are worn?

The tractor runs great when cold but after 30 minutes to an hour after it's been running it really gets rough and usually I have to pull out the choke some to keep it running and then it smoothes out for awhile. Not sure what this is all about. The tractor has new plugs, new wires, new ignition switch...I did not change the points or condensor which may be what I need to do. I did clean the points with some sandpaper. What do ya'll think?

The clutch does not disengage as soon as I push the pedal. Sometimes it can take up to 10-15 seconds before it will disengage. I'm thinking it's sticking to the flywheel because the front seal is leaking gear lube onto the clutch disk.

I suppose that's about it for now...at least, these are the main problems I need to address I think. If anyone has any input on any of these, please let me know. I'm totally new to this and can use all the help I can get!

Oil pressure readings are normal and good.

Missing after 30mins of runtime, you've gott a weak sparkies issue. Heres the deal, by pullin' yer choke, you enrich yer carb mixture. Rich carb mixture is eazier for the weak sparkies to sparkle.

Causes of weak sparkies? Usually the squarecan ignition coil. But ignition points are also a cheap ($5) prime suspect too. Sandpapering yer points, while it gottcha going, ain't a good deal 'cuz they will just corrode faster and cause weak sparkies because sandpaper widens the points gap. More better you use a dollarbill between the points to polish the corrosion off for hotter sparkies.

You do realize itza 2-bolt, 15min job to remove yer frontmount ignition so you can change yer points on yer kitchen table, don't you? Points gap is 0.015". Just un-clippie yer 4-nipple cap and letter dangle, and un-bolt. Yer distributor is driven by an OFF-SET cam tang drive scheme and can only be installed correctly and intime. Just gently finger start yer distributor bolts and rotate yer rotor until everything drops into place. Now tighten yer distributor 2-bolts; and re-snap yer crabcap. No timing required. Simple, eh?..... .....respectfully, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

• Zane's hydraulics guide