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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum

Blown Head Gasket and ???

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Alan R

11-27-2005 05:04:56

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Weeks ago I posted about an 8N I bought from a neighbor. He had been mowing with the tractor and it overheated and was left to stand for about 2 years before I bought it. After standing so long the engine was frozen. I finally pulled the head yesterday and found out why it was locked up. Roughly a 1/2" piece of head gasket between #3 and #4 cylinders was missing. There was also about a 1/2" of crud on top of those two cylinders. I cleaned everything up from the top end, and now am wondering how far to go with repairs. How durable are the rod and main bearings on this tractor? I will at least pull the pan to clean it out and check the rods and mains, but if they look good, should I put it all back together(new piston rings and gaskets) and run it, or remove the pistons, measure the crank and replace all bearings, or go even further with a complete rebuild. This is (will be) a working tractor, not a spare time show/restoration tractor. How far would you go with this repair?

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old

11-27-2005 09:15:15

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Re: Blown Head Gasket and ??? in reply to Alan R, 11-27-2005 05:04:56

Well if it had been a good running tractor before that happened I'd just fill the cylinders with tranny fluid to unlock it and put it back togeather and run it. Other wise if your going to take it apart do it right and have the crank turned/checked by a machine shop and also have the block dipped in a hot tank and do it 100% If it lock up because a little water sat in the cylinders for a few days its not hurt, and if your going to take it apart go the long mile and do it all.

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Alan R

11-27-2005 09:13:00

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Stupid Questions... in reply to Alan R, 11-27-2005 05:04:56

Stupid question #1: To remove the oil pan can I support the gearbox and unbolt the front end without disconnecting it completely? Stupid question #2: What's the easiest way to tell what kind of sleeves I have, steel or iron? According to the I&T Shop Service manual the serial # of iron sleeve engines has a diamond before and after the number, while steel sleeve engines have a star before and after the serial number. This brings me to stupid question #3: Where is the serial number? I see a small plate near the starter that MAY read 1730 and below that a large 8N-B. According to the manual, converting steel sleeve engines to iron sleeves requires a machine shop. Is that true? How difficult is it to replace the sleeves if I have iron to begin with? Is a sleeve replacer tool available? Sorry about all the questions, looks like the in-frame engine kit would work for me, assuming I can replace the sleeves myself. Thanks for any other tips, comments, advice concerning the repairs.

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Dell (WA)

11-27-2005 10:00:09

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Re: Stupid Questions... in reply to Alan R, 11-27-2005 09:13:00

Allen..... ....answer to question #1 = yes. Yer tranny will support yer engine after you remove yer front axle.

Answer to question #2 = I don't know until you try and remove the sleeve and you can't peel the castiron but can the sheetmetal sleeve.

Answer to question #3 = 1x4" flat spot just under the cylinderhead gasket with weakly handstamped numbers. The 8N-B tells me you have a 5-nipple sidemount distributor and 1730 is the block casting date of 17 Mar 1950 (I think, but don't care) Sidemount engines started production in early 1950.

Answer to question #4 = yes. While the N-Pistons are the same diameter, steel or castiron sleeves, the thicker wall (0.090) of the castiron sleeve DEMANDS the cylinder block be "bored-out" to accomodate it. Castiron sleeves have better wear and sealing characteristics than the harder thiner steel sleve.

Answer to question #5 = yes, good machine shops have specialize sleeve removal and replacement tools. Remember the sleeve is an "interference-fitt", meaning it is slightly bigger'n the hole it fitts into. I like to recommend making a sleeve spool outta plywood disks and all-thread rod. Fill the spool/cylinder cavity with dryice chips. (yellow pages) The -100F dryice will shrink the sleeve for eazy fitment. Works for eather steel or castiron sleeves. Simple, eh?

Comment: gitt an I&T FO-4 manual, $22 (cheap)..... ..respectfully, Dell

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John N Ky

11-27-2005 07:35:06

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Re: Blown Head Gasket and ??? in reply to Alan R, 11-27-2005 05:04:56

If you are going to tear it down to replace the rings provided the sleeves will clean, hone & mic out ok, I would replace the bearings anyway, your already there and they don"t cost that much. Cheap insurance.

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duey

11-27-2005 07:28:09

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Re: Blown Head Gasket and ??? in reply to Alan R, 11-27-2005 05:04:56

Alan, have a good look at all the bearings, Plastigage them, then they can stand on their own merit.

It is probably worthwhile to put a set of sleeves and pistons in.

Check the oil pump and pickup tube for condition.

As you can see, it is hard to know where to stop. Can you afford to buy some parts? Can you afford not to?

N owners can relay *their* experiences, you'll have to develop your own. Some will burnish rust off a piston ring to save a dime, the tractor is yours, choice is yours.

Good Luck duey

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