electronic ignition

All that money and it worked for a total of about one hour before it fried my new 12-volt coil. So I tried the original 6-volt coil with a resistor and that coil was also fried within a few hours.

Now I have a new set of points, condenser, and a new 12-volt coil. It's been in there working fine for a couple of months. The $100 electronic module is nailed to the wall in my shop as a reminder.

Check your gaskets on a front mount distributor, mine were missing when I got it. New gaskets will go a long ways towards keeping everything inside the dist clean and dry.

Electronic ignition does work, but the cost out weighs the benefits when all it should take is a little elbow grease and maintenance.

Best of luck and happy holidays

Or the hole in the plate may be worn. You can replace the plate. Try CNH for the screw or cut an 8-32 to .19" and use it.

But then, some times a guy just believes electronic ignition is $exy so if you think that then disregard the stuff about the screw.

Heres the deal, yer soft plated screw gitts "invisable" wear that prevents it from holding tight in yer steel mounting plate. Don't use the most commonally available #8-32x1/4 screw as it is too long and will catch yer centrifical advance weights underneath the points plate.

I can replace a lotta points and screws for the price of an electronics ignition kit. 'course I don't gitt the braggin' rights eather. Remember the frontmount electronics ignition kit is not a "drop-inn" replacement. And it won't work on the 3-volts that the "infamous ballast resistor" supplies to the top terminal of the squarecan ignition coil. And the squarecan ignition coil pukes its insulative tar gutts with straight 6-volts. (too many amps overheat the coil)

BIGG TIPP: polish yer ignition points contacts by squeezing a dollarbill between the contacts. This is more better than filing/scrapeing the invisable deposits that occure from setting a long time between usage. Its just a natural thing and you can't prevent it, its called "oxidation" and is INVISABLE..... ....Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

On the down side.. if you are 6v positive ground.. the electrical system really needs to be in 100% condition... or the module won't fire.. Barely enough juice there for the equipment to run as it is. Also.. if your distribuitor has excessive wear int he bushings.. or weights.. those will need to be addressed seperately.

In the end.. it's your money.. but.. I find it simpler just to correctly maintain your points.

I see dozens of posts here every month about people having problem with points.. it amazes me. Generally it comes down to electrical issues and cleanliness.

My 8n has not had a new set of points in 5 years.. I do dress the old points and reset the gap about once a year... And heck.. even with a good ignition hone.. 'dressed' points aren't 100%.. yet my units run fine. I do this on my other tractors as well... gets a yearly dressing ont he points.. and go. I can't remember the last time I changed a set of points.. but it is generally.. only when I initially buy the tractor and tune it up.

Gotta observe clean handling with points.. No dirty feeler gauges.. and don't use excessive grease on the rubbing block.

I clean all my ignition tools in spray carb / brake cleaner.. -0- residue.

If your points are slipping.. look at the screw..

Soundguy

Some N-Engines with magnetos were sold as auxillary power units to pump irrigation wells, oil wells, railroad refridgeration cars, hay-balers. But these are NOT common.

Many inexperienced neubies think their squarecan ignition coil 4-nipple crabcap frontmount distributor is a magneto 'cuz it don't look like their familiar 5-nipple distributor with roundcan ignition coil..... ...respectfully, Dell

Soundguy