Dell's wisdom

The 2-terminal ignition switch don't care, 6 or 12v. Its battery power IN from the bottom of the "T" of the "infamous ballast resistor" mounting junction block. And its ignition ON out to one side of the "infamous ballast resistor" while the other side of the ballast resistor goes thru the 12-to-6v converting resistor on its way to the top terminal of the squarecan ignition coil ontoppa the frontmount distributor. Simple, eh?

BUT..... iff'n yer changin' yer 2-wire ignition switch to a 3-wire or 4-wire twist to start key switch, (DON'T DOOITT!!!) all betts are OFF..... ....respectfully, Dell

Heres the deal, the 4-terminal starter solenoid needs an EXTERNAL HOT wire to operated it. That is why he was hand connecting a wire to one of the 2-little terminals to make the solenoid operate and switch 12v battery power to the starter motor lug.

Iff'n I understand you correctly, you now have mounted a standard tractor 3-terminal starter solenoid that is INTERNALLY HOT and is operated by an external GROUND to the little middle terminal. I'm not certain wheather you have the 3-terminal 8N roundcan solenoid that mounts on the starter barrel or the NAA's 3-terminal roundcan starter that mounts on the tractor sheetmetal somewheres.

I'm gonnna display my amazing powers of mindreading and guess that you are wanting to use yer non-standard 4-wire twist-to-start key operated ignition switch. And that you are supplying 12v-hot from the keyswitch to the little middle terminal of the 3-terminal solenoid which already is outtputtin' 12v 'cuz its internally HOT. Unfortunately, 2-HOTS don't make a start.

Now PAY ATTENTION, except for the tranny neutral safety interlock issue, Iff'n you wired yer 3-terminal solenoid BASSACKWARDS, the little middle terminal would NOT BE HOT and you can supply the HOT from yer twist-to-start key switch. Since I don't know wheather you have the 8N starter mounted solenoid or the NAA sheetmetal mounted solenoid, I can't specifically tell you exactly how to wire yer 3-terminal solenoid backwards. Understand? ..... ....respectfully, Dell, a 12-volt advocate for the right reasons

That said, I haven't found the right reason for my eazy starting 6-volt 52 8N and I know how to do it right the FIRST time. Infact, I know 8-ways to do it and they all work.

Also, I have been trying to work with what alternator and vol reg that came with tractor. I bought the 3 pole starter mount solenoid and generic 4 poler key switch after talking to a "tractor shop guy" in my very small community here in Florida. Do I need to purchase a different kind of starter push button from a heavy equipment parts house and go back to a terminal block type set up? What would be better way to fix this so I can put this tractor to work and not worry about electrical problems. Do I need to make sure an ammeter is in the circuit first? It dosn"t have one that is operational. Again, thanks for your time and I hope to learn how to send a pic of my project next time iff"n (love that) you like to see it. Respectfully a cherry tractor fixer wanna be.. Paul

Ok, heers the deal. As I understand it, you have a 9N thats been converted to 12v. And the tranny safety interlock jiggle stick operated 2-terminal starter can switch under yer battery tray is MISSING. And you want to use a 4-terminal twist-to-start ignition key switch instead of the OEM 2-wire ignition switch. All that is ok, as long as you are fine with NO INTERLOCK. You want to use the later 8N's starter barrel mounted 3-terminal 6-volt starter solenoid. NO PROBLEM.

To use the internally HOT 3-terminal starter solenoid, mount it NON-traditionally with the little middle terminal facing OUTWARD toward yer bellybutton. USE A HEAVY flat copper buss-barr to connect the starter barrel stud to the big starter stud facing it. Now connect yer 12-volt battery POSITIVE post with heavy 1/0 cable to the solenoid stud facing the driver.

Now you can supply 12-volts to the little middle terminal facing yer beltbuckle from yer 4-terminal twist-to-start ignition switch ST terminal. Solenoid should NOT CHATTER. Why? 'cuz 12v on 6v solenoid is OVER volting its gonnna ker-whump but ain't gonnna hurt-itt. ok?

Best as I can tell in all yer puttz'n-round, all you ever done is complain that yer starter solenoid clicks and NOT ONCE have to claimed to have yer starter motor whirr and turn the engine over. Well guess what? iff'n yer stater solenoid don't click and yer stater moter don't whirr, ya ain't gotts enuff volts. And 12-volts is plenty volts to gitter-dunn.

The only thing in common that would cause solenoid clickin' and NO motor whirrin' is BADD-GROUND. And while you could have a BAD starter motor, make certain yer starter motor is well grounded first by splitin yer starter motor seam at the tranny hole and with a wire brush polish the seam. Understand? I used a fine rotory brush on a drill motor, but even a BBQ-grill brush will work.

Now then iff'n yer 6-volt starter motor don't whirr when it gitts hit with 12-volts (it ain't gonnna hurt the starter motor) Then it would be my judgement that yer starter motor is BAD and needs servicing..... ....respectfully, Dell

Also, it is best to source the power for the light switch from the other side of the terminal block, rather than through the ignition switch.

Link