Got some questions.

1. Is there any way to test the alternator with it on the tractor. I know I can take it off and have it tested for free. But I think it is ok, I just want to test it. Anyway to test it using a meter. The tractor has an idiot lite on it and the light goes out when the motor starts. But I"m having to put a charger on the battery and boost it everytime I start it. I"m sure the battery is good. I"m wondering if the problem is a weak alternator.

2. Anytime I hook up the finish mower, I have to use a big hammer and beat the yoke onto the PTO shaft. Then I have to beat it back off again. Is there anything I can do about this or do I need a new yoke. I"m afraid I"m gonna break something by beating on it. I recently put a new ORC on it and that made it even tighter.

3. Can I swap the steering box out for a later one that is rebuildable. Mine works ok except for the wheel wobble in 4th gear going down the road. I don"t do that very often so for now I just use my feet to stop the wobble. Be nice to fix it rite tho.

4. Does putting rear axle seals on it help any. I don"t want to put that kind of investment in it (money and labor) of they are gonna still leak anyway. Everything looks to be in good shape except one side leaks and the other mite a little.
Be nice to have steering brakes working for both sides.

I"ll probably think of other questions as well.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

Have you determined the play is not in tie rod ends or draglinks / spindle / hub bushings/bearings? Bulge in a tire? Got any toe in?

Do the voltage test on the battery.. static and running.. that will tel you if it is charging.. now.. it may be charging but there may be a short somewhere. After you determine if it is charging, get a low wattage lamp.. or a test lamp.. and pull a battery cable.. put the lamp inline with it.. if it glows.. you have current flowing whent he tractor is off.. and that is killing the battery. Start at the alternator and disconnect wires till you find the draw.

Outside possibility that it is bad battery.

Axle seals? Early ones only have one.. if the axle is grooved.. you may need to sleave it.. etc..

Soundguy

Didn"t think about a short somewhere.
I"ll have to test that.

My brother knows how to use an o-scope.
He is an electronics technician.
I guess you adjust for the high frequency and look at the dc ripple.
Should be able to see the 3 phases that way.

I got one of those testers today for specific gravity in the battery.
Been a long time since I used one so I don"t know where my last one made off to.

Also gonna have to test for clean-bright-tight.
Although after charging the battery for a while it starts good.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Pooh Bear

Roger in Michigan

I figured I could just start the engine and test the voltage across the battery. With the engine running I was thinking it should read about 15 volts (ok, 14)

The amp meter on the tractor doesn"t work and I don"t think it is even hooked up.

I could take a battery cable off while it is running but this only shows a dead alternator. A weak alternator will still run the engine.

I have heard of the screw driver trick on the back of alternators. I had forgotten about it.

I"m gonna have to get a hygrometer and test the battery.
I"m sure it is a good battery.
It is the trolling motor battery out of our boat.
It"s a deep cycle marine battery.
but it is too big for the tractor so I plan on getting a new battery soon as the grass starts growing again.

Thanks for the info.

Pooh Bear

Another way is to crank the engine and remove the cable from the battery hot terminal. The engine should continue to run off of the alternator. Be careful when removing the cable.

Does your ammeter read charging?

Tim