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Dawn. I've kind of been waiting all day to see these results. Just about what I predicted for numbers (which makes me feel good). These numbers tell me that there is nothing major wrong with this engine. I still suspect a burned exhaust valve in cylinder #2, and all cylinders need the valves ground (or lapped in). And then the tappets need to be adjusted. I'll stick my neck out and disagree with Old on his prediction of the knock coming from #2 (he may be right, but it will be real difficult to predict that one). If the engine had been run with no oil pressure, which I think is a good possibility, then the greatest likelyhood for damage is the connecting rod journal farthest from the oil pump, which is #4. Usually the connecting rod bearings are damaged from oil starvation quite a bit before the main bearings are destroyed. I have seen the inside of engines "schrapnelled" by oil starvation, but the connecting rod bearings go first, maybe to the point of seizing the rod to the crank, breaking the rod and then slamming it through the block. But, I heard your sound clip of this engine running, and it is nowhere near the point of self destruction. Just don't start it and run it until after you have dropped the pan and inspected the connecting rod bearings. Where to go from here? Drain the antifreeze from both the block drain on the left side of the engine block, and the drain at the bottom of the radiator at the bottom left corner where the big lower hose goes into the radiator. Antifreeze is toxic to animals, and they like the sweet taste, so be sure to put it in a covered pail or sealed up gallon milk jugs. You should get between 2 and 3 gallons out of it. Next, remove the head, all head bolts should be the same length, so no need to label them individually. I think they take a 5/8" socket, so your new set will find real use! On some engines, the original head bolts will be replaced by studs with nuts, and that is perfectly good too. If it is studs, you do not have to get the studs out of the block, just take the nuts off and lift the head. It will be stuck, but not very heavy. The head must come off to service the valves, and inspect the tops of the pistons, and the cylinder bore for deep scratches (probably none, although #2 is the questionable one). To check the connecting rod bearings and journals, you need to remove the oil pan. But first loosen the radiator hoses and take off the radiator. Then block up the middle of the tractor by using good wood blocking under the transmission and bell housing area. Then take the entire front axle, radius rods, tie rods, and wheels and axle housing as a single unit. You'll need help from someone with this as it is top heavy and likes to just fold up and quickly lay down on the ground. All of its weight can be moved on the front tires, if you keep them aimed straight ahead. Now you can take the oil pan bolts out and drop the pan. If you have a creeper to lay on and roll on the concrete floor, your body will thank you. Working on the underside of an engine by laying on a creeper is not too bad. Well think about it and make your own plan. Paul
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