9N newbie questions

I'm sure you can tell by the questions that I'm just at the beginning of the learning curve. Thanks and I really appreciate this website.

I have read the pros and cons of converting to 12 volts. The wiring was in pretty bad shape and would have to replaced them anyway plus I live in a very cold area (Canada) and decided a 12 volt system would probably make starting the tractor a little easier. It also gets dark a little earlier in the winter up here and thought a 12 volt system could give me a little more light, etc. I intend on using the tractor for harvesting firewood from the bush.

Consequently, I was hoping (with a little help from the folks here) that the new wiring, upgrade to 12 volt system and a tune up kit would go a long way in getting my baby fired up. I know the carburator was overhauled not too many years ago.

I'm not afraid of any type of mechanical repair provided the instruction are good, but I must admit my electrical knowledge is rather weak. (I could wire a house though, but I don't think marr connectors should be used on automotive wiring) One of my question refered to using an ammeter terminal as a junction post. I also don't understand the ignition switch. It has a coil of wire surrounded by a ceramic piece separating the terminals.I would like to replace the switch.

I really appreciate the help and unfortunately I'm sure there will be more questions in the future.

Thanks
Ron

The "infamous ballast resistor" is MANDANTORY with the 6-volt squarecan 4-nipple frontmount distributor ignition system. It supplies volts from your 2-wire ignition ON switch terminal to your 1-terminal squarecan ignition coil. And keeps the coil from burning out.

Iff'n you can do housewiring, replacing the OEM 2-wire ignition switch should be piece-o'cake.

As was pointed out, itza 2-bolt 15-minute job to remove yer frontmount distributor and change the points (gap = 0.015") on yer kitchen table. The distributor is an OFF-SET drive scheme and can NOT be installed out of time. Just finger start yer 2-bolts and twirl yer rotor untill the distributor drops into the OFF-SET drive slot and then tighten the 2-bolts; re-snap the 4-nipple cap, flip the squarecan bail and yer ready to go. Simple, eh?

Oh yeah, on engines that set for a long time, its not uncommon for the points to gitt INVISABLE corrosion deposits and stops the sparkies from sparkeling. Sometimes you can "polish" the points by gripping a strip of brown paperbag or dollarbill between the points. This is better than fileing or scrapeing the points as it doesn't effect the points gap. (0.015")

Before you commit to converting to 12-volts, letts gitt yer current tractor started. You do know that you can use a 12-volt battery to "jump-start" yer 6-volt tractor, don't you? Just clamp onto the 6-volt starter STUD. Double check yer tranny SHIFTER is in NEUTRAL, ignition switch ON; under-tank fuel valve 2-turns open. Now finsh yer 12-volt jumpstart by clampin onto some eazy foot brackets. NO CHOKE. It should really whirr and start within 5-seconds. Iff'n not start, now quick-pull yer choke while cranking. WARNING: N's FLOOD eazy. Stop crankin' after 30-secs MAX and figger out what ya did wrong. Probably flooded it, change yer sparkies ennyways. Autolite AL-437's recommended, gapped 0.025. Lett starter motor guttz cool for 5-mins before attempting to re-start.

Recommend you consider the merits of your very own personal copy of the I&T FO-4 manual. Available from sponsors of this great N-Board; many agricultural emporiums. Amazon.com, BordersBooks, WalMartBooks. www.n-news.com also has great archive of implement manual. Would you believe Ford/New Holland dealer even sell it; isn't that amazing? Even my local (byte my tongue) John Deere Dealer parts counter is selling it. $22 (cheap) gittcha one and readitt..... ...respectfully, Dell

Here is a link to a site with several wiring diagrams. One of these should match up with your tractor.

• Wiring Diagrams

Thanks

You mentioned that your original ballast resistor is bad. Make sure you replace it. you need the two resistors in series between the ignition and the coil or the 12-v ignition will burn it up.

Also, I've seen several posts suggesting that it's a good idea to replace the ammeter with a voltmeter to remove two of the possible places where faulty connections can leave you dead. A voltmeter hooks up with one small wire to any switched voltage source and a ground connection.

You can find a new ignition switch on this site or one of the other Ford Tractor Parts sites for about $6.