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Ford 9N, 2N & 8N Discussion Forum
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ENGINE REBUILD

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RandyNark

01-18-2006 23:13:08




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NEW TO THIS BUT I NEED TO REBUILD MY MOTOR A FEW MONTHS AGO I REPLACED A BLOWN HEAD GASKET AND AFTER A FEW HOURS IT STARTED USING ALOT OF OIL AND LOSING POWER AND NOW IT WONT RUN AT ALL MY SON SAID THAT WHEN I HAD IT TORE DOWN SOME CARBON PROBABLY FELL INTO CYLINDERS AND SCRATCHED THE WALLS AND NOW I NEED TO INSTALL NEW SLEEVES AND PISTONS CANT I JUST HONE THE CYLINDERS LIGHTLY AND PUT IN NEW RINGS LIKE THE OLD DAYS

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old

01-19-2006 07:11:15




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 Re: ENGINE REBUILD in reply to RandyNark, 01-18-2006 23:13:08  
I sort of agree with Dell other then forget the MMO and save your self a buck or 2 and use tranny fluid works as well and cost less then half.



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uh . . . Dell (WA)

01-19-2006 09:37:57




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 Re: ENGINE REBUILD in reply to old, 01-19-2006 07:11:15  
old..... ....I'm certain autotranny oil works for you because of its high detergency capacity. It is NOT a SOLVENT based elixar like Marvel Mystery Oil. How do I know? Besides reading the lable, solvents evaporate and MMO with heat will evaporate from your engine oil. Iff'n autotranny oil was solvent, you'd be adding autotranny oil to yer belchfire V8's slushbox all the time..... ....respectfully, Dell

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old

01-19-2006 10:24:26




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 Re: ENGINE REBUILD in reply to uh . . . Dell (WA), 01-19-2006 09:37:57  
Well in cases of sticking ring and carbon build up tranny fluid works very well. That is from in the field testing. I have used the MMO and the tranny fluid and compared and have found the over all the tranny fluid works as good if not better for every thing I have tried it in, even in the oil pan of engines and the gas tanks.



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TheOldHokie

01-19-2006 04:27:52




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 Re: ENGINE REBUILD in reply to RandyNark, 01-18-2006 23:13:08  
This is the N board and it IS the old days ;-)

TOH



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Dell (WA)

01-19-2006 00:47:33




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 Re: ENGINE REBUILD in reply to RandyNark, 01-18-2006 23:13:08  
Randy..... ...your son is semi-right, low compression. But as a general rule, carbon falling into yer cylinder is soft (otherwize it wouldn't have fallen in) and usually gitts blown out during engine re-start.

FIRST THING, do the dreaded compression test, dry & then wet. Ford specs: 90psi min (dry). The wet-test will evaluate the condition of the rings (worn from carbon?) Normal worn engine compression will increase +20psi over dry reading. really worn engine will increase +40psi over dry and is canidate for rebuild. No increase over dry, burned exhaust valve.

Now your semi-ready to make the rebuild decision. Do you remember yer oil pressure numbers? Low 10psi? Normal 30psi?

ME? First thing I'd do, is make certain the rings aren't stuck. $10 can of Marvel Mystery Oil can save an un-necessary $1500 engine rebuild. Read the instructions on the can of MMO. Basically, you pour a couple of ounces of MMO down the sparkie hole and lettitt set overnite. It will drain thru yer rings and un-stick'em. Then re-doo yer compression tests. Iff'n dry compression doesn't increase (and I'm bettin' it will), now yer a canidate for new rings/overhaul..... ....respectfully, Dell

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FarmerDawn

01-19-2006 06:46:06




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 Re: ENGINE REBUILD in reply to Dell (WA), 01-19-2006 00:47:33  
"Normal worn engine compression will increase +20psi over dry reading. really worn engine will increase +40psi over dry and is canidate for rebuild. No increase over dry, burned exhaust valve." Never saw exactly this set of diagnostics hooked up with numbers before, Dell, and it's VERY useful! Now I see why several people mentioned valve work on Arthur. Thanks for posting this! --Dawn



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