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9n newbie part 3

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ronjoh

01-19-2006 18:25:28




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Thanks Del and others. Tractor started as per Dell’s instruction. WOW !!! Did it ever feel good driving it up and down the driveway.

To recap:

The 9n hasn't been running for two to three years. I have read the pros and cons of converting to 12 volts and have decided to convert for various reasons. (Actually I have already purchased the kit from the folks at this web site)

Consequently, I was hoping (with a little help from the folks here) that the new wiring, upgrade to 12 volt system and a tune up kit would go a long way in getting my baby fired up. I know the carburetor was overhauled not too many years ago. As Dell suggested " Before you commit to converting to 12-volts, letts gitt yer current tractor started. "

OK, I now have installed new points, condenser and plugs. Now I tried to get the tractor going. It seemed liked it wanted to start but the starter motor kicked out as soon as there appeared to be ignition.

Dell – “The starter kick-out is semi-indicative of a worn starter drive, but don't worry about it yet. Nows the time to use yer spare 12v battery for a "jump-start". You need to "reseal" the piston rings with oil to increase your compression so the engine will start.”

Well, the tractor has now started (hooray!!) and I’m very pleased about that.

Some concerns/questions though.

1. Should I now proceed with 12 volt conversion?
2. What about starter kick-out?
3. Compression did improve except number 1 cylinder is still very low?
4. After I drove the tractor for a short time and parked it, there was a leak of an oilish yellow/green fluid coming from the rear of the oil pan. Not knowing the name of the particular point of leakage, I can only describe it as a cotter pin type of looking thingy at the rear of the oil pan. Perhap some type of a relief valve?. If this doesn’t make any sense, maybe I can post a picture. I really don’t what to call this (relief valve?) or how to better describe it. Sorry!

Thanks again
Ron

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ronjoh

01-19-2006 19:42:57




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 Re: 9n newbie part 3 in reply to ronjoh, 01-19-2006 18:25:28  
Two more questions

What about the starter kick out? Should I not worry about it (for now)?

There was NO leak until I ran the tractor for about 20 minutes. Does that help to identify the source?

Thanks again
Ron



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Carl S in NH

01-19-2006 20:21:43




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 Re: 9n newbie part 3 in reply to ronjoh, 01-19-2006 19:42:57  
Warm fluids are thinner than cold fluids. The leak may only happen when the tractor's been warmed up. Experiment. Try that can underneath to catch the drips. See if you get more when the tractor's been running or is running.
Can't help you on the starter kickout. Replacing a bendix isn't that hard or expensive. If it were me, I'd keep 'er as is until it doesn't work anymore. You could order a new bendix and keep it on hand until needed.
Once you've converted to 12V that will change the way the starter acts anyway. It'll spin a lot faster and that could change how soon it releases.

Carl

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FarmerDawn

01-19-2006 19:42:21




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 Re: 9n newbie part 3 in reply to ronjoh, 01-19-2006 18:25:28  
CONGRATULATIONS!!! :-) How cool to drive it at last!



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Carl S in NH

01-19-2006 19:19:39




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 Re: 9n newbie part 3 in reply to ronjoh, 01-19-2006 18:25:28  
I think what you are describing is the cotter pin & hole at the bottom of the bell housing. The bell housing contains your clutch disk, and needs to be kept free of oil. I guess Henry figured his oil & tranny seals might leak some day, and this was his simple solution - a hole. The cotter pin is supposed to wiggle about and keep the hole open. Don't cut it off or remove it! It has a purpose there.
Now as to the fluid which you call "oilish yellow green". I wanted to say it's antifreeze, which would be the right color, but can't see how that would end up in the bell housing. I suppose it's possible you've got antifreeze mixing in with your engine oil and leaking into the bell housing via the rear engine seal. Possibly it's discolored tranny fluid. Suggestion: wire a tin can under the hole and see how much fluid it collects in a few days. Maybe with more liquid you can determine what it is. Antifreeze has a distinctive odor to it.
I'm hoping someone else with more knowledge will jump in here on the nature of that fluid.
Glad to hear you got it running!
Carl

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dave8n

01-19-2006 19:13:36




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 Re: 9n newbie part 3 in reply to ronjoh, 01-19-2006 18:25:28  
Sounds like your leaking tranny fluid out of the front tranny seal.Thats the drain hole in your bell housing and the cotter key is to keep the open so it can drain...Dave.



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ronjoh

01-19-2006 18:42:36




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 Re: 9n newbie part 3 in reply to ronjoh, 01-19-2006 18:25:28  
The leak I'm trying to describe (in 4.) is better described by looking at I&T FO-4 page 11 Fig F021. In the bottom left of the figure there is a piece that looks (to me) like a cotter pin. That is where the leak is ocurring.

Thanks



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Dell (WA)

01-19-2006 19:32:29




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 Re: 9n newbie part 3 in reply to ronjoh, 01-19-2006 18:42:36  
Ron..... ...the jangle'n cotterkey thingy is Fords hi-tech scheme to keep the clutch housing drainhole clear of dusty oily mud for when you have seal leaks to drain out. There are only 2-sources of clutch housing leaks. Engine oil from behind flywheel rope seal. Tranny oil from OVERFILLED hydro-tranny oil. TIP: remove the bottom bolt from the 6" round dipstick plate behind yer right heel, and let any tranny OVERFILL oil drain down the side of the tranny into big catch basin overnite.

I'm glad ya finally gottchur engine started.

Can you follow instructions religiously? Iff'n so, then go ahead and convert to 12v..... ..respectfully, Dell a 12v advocate for the right reasons

That said, I haven't found the right reason for my eazy starting 6-volt 8N and I know how to do it right the first time. Infact I know 8-ways to do it and they all work.

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