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Go to the "My Old Fords site", and look at the 4TH diagram from the top. It is perfect for your use, except you need to add Dell's "secret trick current limiting resistor" in the lead to the coil, 2- 1 Ohm 10 Watt resistors in parallel, yielding a 1/2 Ohm, 20-Watt resistor. DO NOT use the OEM ballast resistor with your "12-Volt" coil. Use a "marker light", or an "idiot light" in the lead to the alternator's "1 terminal. Alternately, you can use a diode, such as a 1N5008, installed in place of the light, with the white banded "cathode" end towards the alternator's #1 terminal. Resist the temptation to use the ignition switch's ACC terminal to provide the "excite" current for the alternator, without the use of a lamp or diode, as, although this does work, it is not what the alternator was designed for, and, under certain circumstances, can cause regulator and/or diode trio failure. There are many options for the starter solenoid, however, unless you want to get into the electricals big time, simply get a new correct replacement for the original 6-Volt solenoid, and leave it connected to the safety "neutral start" tranny-top button. (For the intermittant use it's subjected to, a 6-Volt solenoid will be fine for this use.) I would consider connecting the headlight switch to the other side of the terminal block. This will eliminate the ignition switch from having to carry the headlight current, but will, of course, eliminate the convenience of having the headlights shut off with the key... you'll have to remember to turn them off!
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